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in short. NO
you will need a line level converter or amp/active sub with speaker level inputs
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Would you then be able to install anafter marketdouble din head unit instead? Im sure i read somewhere that thepre faceliftnotes radio slot wasslightlyskinnier and thereforewouldn'tfit a double din radio? Is this correct?
 

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its double din, except the 6 disc player whats an odd size you, If you have the 6 disc youd to replace the surround iirc is £120 from a dealer new (without the top cubby) you can pick one up off ebay or from a breakers for £10-30 quid
 

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Would it be possible to fit my subwoofer underneath the passenger seat? Currently it is in the boot:
But as there is space under the passenger seat if i remove the tray that is underneath it im wondering if it would be possible to fit it underneath it and if it would sound any good, as i have read something about the enclosure needs to be a certain size or you lose sound quality:
 

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10" sub needs about 10" square enclosure i did work it out a year or so ago with the sub firing downwards you could only get an 8" sub in there with a decent box and the amp mounted under the other seat
the other way is to use a active sub like the new alpine or use a free air sub what doesnt need a box (can be pricey)

as its up front it wont need a big amp either

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/alp-swe1200-alpine-swe-1200-ultra-compact.html

I have used these guys for years they may not be the cheapest but there service is second to none

http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/

oh i like the look of them 6" subs one either side in the boot may be good
 

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well i already have the sub in the boot, and dont really want to buy another. its a 900w (peak) edge amp and sub package. so i can take the amp off the enclosure and the sub, then install it under the seat, although i am also wondering whether i should make it a ported enclosure, as that is what it has now or if i can seal it. i know there are both pros and cons to each type but will still ask. its a 12" sub, and i have taken the speaker out and just tried to see if it will fit, which it will but there is not a lot of room underneath the bottom of the speaker. is this a problem or will it be ok?
 

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well the sub needs to be in a box a ported box will be even larger you need the specs of the sub to calculate the size of box 12" sub as a ball park figure needs 1-1.25 cubic foot of space what you can convert to litres if you build a custom fiber glass enclosure you can measure the space with bean bag balls and a 1 litre jug
i had a pair of alpine type r 12" subs in a custom box and that filled the boot of a corsa

peak wattage is meaningless the true power is the rms wattage (rms is 1/2 to 2/3 or less of the peak power) ie. a stereo says its 50w x 4 but the true rms is more like 19-24 watts

if you can take some measurments iMAY be able to work out a box

http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/ipb/index.php?app=forumsa good audio forum
 

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What measurements will you need? The other thing I may do is replace the parcel shelf with mdf and mount the sub in that with a long thin box around it
 

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the location length and width and max depth, i did think at one point about cutting the under seat storage box about (a spare one tho) and plastic welding sections in
 

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I'm planning on installing an amplifier and connect it to the speakers + a subwoofer in the trunk. Problem is on order to do this I'll have to disconnect the battery and that implies blocking the radio. I asked Nissan Service Italia about it and they said I might have to pay something in order to unlock the radio (I already read on this forum about this code thing). My question is: is there anyway I can do this without getting the radio locked in the first place? Do you guys think the only way would be doing thing the "conventional" way by disconnecting the battery and risking having to pay for a new radio code?
 

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If your into car electrics, why don't you just wire from your battery to the radio, nothing else? That way if you disconnect the battery the radio still retains the code and save you money :wink:.
I'm no car electrician, but I have the ideas, surely it would only require one wire? Perhaps a more knowledgeable member could give a better answer on how to keep your car code safe while working on another part of the car :wink: :smile_big:.
 

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Car Battery Memory Saver, your getting technical now, when a bit of wire will do :smile_big:.
 

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My radio code is in the handbook that came with the car.
Also a mate who had lost his code read that connecting a 9 volt battery to the car battery leads, after removing them from the car battery, would be enough to keep the memory in the radio.He used two lengths of wire taped to the 9 volt battery and connected them to the car battery leads, lo and behold it DID work !
 

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The Draper car battery memory saver uses the same principal, it has the PP9 9v battery and two warning lights plus a fuse as a safeguard.
 

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Thanks everybody for the quick replies, you guys gave me really useful advice! ? I really dig the solutions y'all suggested, only thing I'll have to make sure first is that I have an additional car battery somewhere that I can use for this operation otherwise the cost of buying a new one would be higher than the expense of getting the radio codes from the dealer. Btw I saw that the memory savers have an obd plug that goes into the ecu, is that where the codes are stored? I thought they were stored in the radio itself
 

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My bad. Btw now I have pretty much figured out how the car battery-memory losing thing works. I think the memory saver might be the easiest solution if someone (like me) is afraid of messing stuff up.
The other way (that is, connecting an electrical source to the battery leads) sounds a bit cheaper but if I understand correctly it can only be done IF you have a power source available like, for example, another battery. Question is: could this be done by connecting my Note's battery to another car's battery? (pretty much as you would do if you where to jump start the car)
I'm asking this because this way seems to be cheaper: all you would have to do is finding a mate with a car with a working battery and a couple cables (which I already have) attached to both cars' battery leads.
Thanks everybody for the help so far, I will keep you updated ;)
 
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