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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got a dash cam installed, works fine, takes power from 12v socket. Has a red wire that is supposed to connect to the reverse light to trigger reverse cam/parking assist.
I’d like as much detail as possible in connecting this, I know which bulb is the reverse light but not took the assembly off to see the back/wiring side. Been looking but I can’t find a wiring diagram or anything and don’t have multimeter, does anyone know what colour wire is the correct one to tap into? (Note ntec+ Petrol 12 plate)
 

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You wouldn't go wrong if you bought a Haines work shop manual.
Wiring diagrams and a lot more are all clearly shown.
It will be under 20 quid and could be very useful for this and many other issues in the future.
 

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I just had a look through the E11 workshop manual and wiring diagram / current flow chart. I did not really have a need for this before. I cannot find any reference to wire colours. They must be taking some of their information in the workshop from Consult. Otherwise fixing anything alectrical with it would be very frustrating. I have a VAG workshop manual and current flow chart and that is like a bible.

As said before you need to measure your pin outs the hard way.
 

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Got a dash cam installed, works fine, takes power from 12v socket. Has a red wire that is supposed to connect to the reverse light to trigger reverse cam/parking assist.
I’d like as much detail as possible in connecting this, I know which bulb is the reverse light but not took the assembly off to see the back/wiring side. Been looking but I can’t find a wiring diagram or anything and don’t have multimeter, does anyone know what colour wire is the correct one to tap into? (Note ntec+ Petrol 12 plate)
I also need the same advice as if got the exact same problem. Did you find the answer pappk96.
 

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Make a test light out of a car bulb and two lengths of wire. Solder the wire to the bulb, turn on ignition without starting the car, put car into reverse, earth the test light to car body and touch wires to light cluster. When test lamp lights up you have found the wire you need to connect to. Easy !
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I went to b n q, thanks to lockdown I have literally no money for weeks now but picked up the bulb screwdriver things, and thanks to the packaging having no information on it, I found out it was for mains testing only, 100-240V. They were out of multimeters. I like sineus idea about the bulb, however I don’t have any spare bulbs and I’d rather not start soldering to the one in the car in case I mess it up, how ever I may have some other thing with 12 v around, a small motor or something, I may try something like that, as I have a lot of breadboards/wires etc from arduino projects. When I checked, I had red/green(I think) wire, and a black wire, logic says red green is positive but I will confirm with something else first just in case
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the update. I too have no bulbs or multi meter. I will wait for your cofirmation.
Had a look I have everything except something that will accept 12v, all the robot part stuff is like 5v except the main board which can take 12v limit thanks to a regulator, but it is usb input, think I may just keep searching for confirmation on the colours for my model, tempted to bite the bullet and attach to the one that you would think is positive but I’ll turn out to have the one car with black as the positive
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
SOLVED
Borrowed money and bought mini multimeter, set voltage to upto 20dc, black lead in middle slot red on the red as the instructions said, and voila, the positive was the green/red, black was negative.

the dash cam I was using was to guard mirror dash cam, it receives power through 12v socket, and the red wire is just a trigger for reverse cam, so red wire to red/green for my Nissan note ntec 1.4 petrol 12 plate.
While doing it, not having the things that others suggested, I had the idea, why not just press the red wire to either tip, and if it’s positive, it would trigger the reverse cam and then you would know, however, I’m not sure if touching it to the negative would either do nothing, or would short something or break something, someone smarter may clarify, but I’d imagine that since this particular dash cam is not a power source, merely a trigger, it would be ok? Also my particular rear cam I discovered has lights, that only come on when you trigger the reverse, I had mounted mine inside the car, driving, you see a faint black line of the rear screen heater lines, not a bother, however, with the lights, it makes it near impossible to see clearly. So I will probably need to remount on the outside of the car, which I wanted to avoid as it means taking off tons of trim and drilling and then the lens will get dirty quick where i am. Any suggestions on reducing the glare etc would be appreciated, thanks everyone
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'm having same problem with the glare when in reverse. So will need to mount it outside but don't want to drill holes in the bodywork.
It’s worth it honestly. It’s supposed to go right above license plate, but wasn’t enough space to mount the plate vertically, so had to mount horizontally, on the overhang edge where your boot release is, but because the boot release is in the middle I put mine just at the side of it. My car model, the overhang edge part is actually separate. So opened boot, unclip the boot trim, undo four bolts to remove the overhang boot release panel, which is actually plastic on my car, and using the right sized drill bit gives a great seal, aswell as having the foam pad attached. Fed the red and black cable through a larger central hole, then screw the cam on, then feed wires through the brackets and metal work, on the boot itself, there was a tight right angle that I had to drill two holes and clean the gap to let me angle the wire tip out. Then reattach the overhang boot release, feed wires up to the top of the back window, reattach trim and route along the edge, then give enough slack for it to go from the boot lid, to down the side of the back of the car to the lights. I did it that way so when you open the boot you do see a few cm of wire going from top of the boot to top of the boot seal.
But trust me, it’s so much more secure since it’s screwed and I assume you didn’t screw it into your interior. It’s got a great angle view from there, wider than my mirrors, and the depth gauge more accurate. It does get a little blurry with certain conditions but I’ve yet to have it be useless. Compared to the glare, which made it useless after dark. It’s very simple just a bit fiddly, totally worth it, took me like an hour to undo and redo it all including having to work out where to put it exactly
 

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Admittedly not on Mrs B’s Note, but I just trapped the (home-made replacement) bracket of my aftermarket reverse camera behind the rear number plate, just under the number plate light, and took the wire into the car through the same hole. If that’s not possible, you could drill a hole behind, and hidden by, the number plate, maybe?

if you look on an E12 car with the 360 cameras fitted, you can see the rear camera installation.

FWIW, your camera has LEDs on it for night reversing, as the single reversing lamp doesn’t provide enough illumination for the camera to work. Don’t ask me how I know, but I will say the one on my car isn’t the first camera I bought.........
 
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