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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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My 2007 Note SVE, which I have had since 7000 miles, has
always been a bit frisky when travelling over depressed manhole covers etc at c30
mph. The rear end steps out of line
momentarily towards the left. I have
used 2 pairs of rear tyres which lasted only 15000 per set and they have worn
more on the inside than the outside of the tread. Suspecting a rear wheel alignment fault I had the tracking tested
and sure enough the toe out was +25' and +20' on the left and right rear
respectively The front alignment was
OK. However the alignment guy said no adjustment was possible.


I do not expect satisfaction from a dealer who will
simply shrug and say they all do that so put up with it or pay for a new back
end. So, does anyone know a reliable place in Bucks UK where I can get EZ shims
fitted please?
 

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Its a fixed setup you can shim it, tbh i would also look at the wheels/shocks and springs

the spec in the service manual are

Camber -1°55¢ to -0°25¢ (-1.92° to -0.42°)

Toe-in 1.3 to 5.3 mm (0.05 to 0.21 in)

Edited by: flash22
 

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I shimmed my rear axle beam because of the excessive toe-in, which was knocking off the outside of the treads, as reported by several other members. The stub axles are on 4 bolts, simply slipping a thin shim between two of the bolts will change the angle.

This has to be a manufacturing fault, the rear beam must have been outside tolerance when originally fitted, as I can't imagine a situation that could bend it without pretty much writing off the car. If the beam will bend at a pothole it cannot have been fit for purpose in the first place.

This issue really needs pursuing with Nissan, but no-one, myself included can be bothered, it is easy enough to drop a couple of bits of shim steel in place.

Basically, you need a little toe-in at the back so the back end drags behind and keeps the car running straight, toe out will cause the car to dart about when running straight.







Edited by: mnl
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks mnl. Can you recall the relationship between the thickness of shim and the effect on toe please? I need to achieve a change of at least 0.5 degrees. Did you manage to insert the shims by just releasing, but not removing the 4 bolts? Would a set of feeler gauges be an appropriate source of material? Have you any concern that the bolts would be placed in bending by shimming under only one side of the head?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Flash22. The alignment check showed the camber to be OK. I can';t see how the springs/shocks or wheels could affect the geometry of the suspension - they look fine anyway. Shims seem the way ahead for me when the weather warms up a bit.
 

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Mine has the same rear end unsettled by pot holes problem, I figured it was normal.


That toe in figure has a very wide range! I would imagine it would handle quite differently at either extreme.
 

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My note had a tiny bit of extra wear on the nearside rear. And is a bit 'hoppy' over uneven roads, especially when cornering.The handling improves greatly, when there is some weight at the back, like having a full fuel tank. On low fuel, low rear weight, it does hop about.

I don't think I'll be putting a paving slab in the boot, to put more weight on the rear, unlike in the past, when I did exactly that in my Lotus Talbot Sunbeam.
 

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avhation said:
Thanks mnl. Can you recall the relationship between the thickness of shim and the effect on toe please? I need to achieve a change of at least 0.5 degrees. Did you manage to insert the shims by just releasing, but not removing the 4 bolts? Would a set of feeler gauges be an appropriate source of material? Have you any concern that the bolts would be placed in bending by shimming under only one side of the head?
It is near enough 15:1 . Put 1/15th of the change that you want to effect overall between the bolts on front or back of both axle flanges.

I stuck .008" under each of mine to try to lose 1/8" overall .

(My track gauges measure in proper imperial inches, no foreign stuff for me)

I used feeler gauges. cut two notches in the gauge to go round the bolt shanks, and leave the end of the gauge as a handle to hold it whilst the bolts tighten, just slacken the bolts to fit.

I'm not concerned by 8 thou
but no doubt the stub axles will snap off under the enormous strain one day
, so only fit them if you are prepared to take the risk that one will send you ploughing through a bus queue.

You'd have thought nissan could have managed to jig weld two bits of steel to within +/- 2mm in the first place, I thought everything was robotic nowadays







What you could do is drop the beam down on the pivots, and use a blackhawk type bodyjack to force the wheels apart and sprag the U shape wideras you want less toe-out.


As to the skittish back end, I keep the tank pretty full most of the time anyway, and must carry 50kg of assorted junk in the boot as well, and mine is fine.

Edited by: mnl
 

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And you can alleviate the tyre wear on the edges slightly by putting about 3psi more in the tyre. This will reduce the tread contact area and cause the middle to wear a bit more.

(Yes you might crash more easily in the wet, but you've got that ESP system that you aren't using)
 

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I agree with the "suspicion" that there's a manufacturing fault with the earlier Notes. I've had nothing but Nissans throughout my driving life and so has my Dad from when he bought a 140y. We both decided to buy the Note and have had exactly the same problems with them. It sometimes feels like there's a rather large hand lifting the rear end and moving it round the road a bit. Nissan read this site and there's someone at Nissan who's probably wiped the sweat from his brow and said something to the effect that "we were lucky we got away with that one". Well, you didn't. My Dad got rid of his Note and bought a KIA. As he said to me, "if Nissan can't own up and repair what is clearly a faulty car then I'll never buy another". He kept his word and has now bought a second KIA. As my Dad changes his car every four years you've lost his repeat business permanently as you are going to lose mine. (And my son's, now he can drive). so what you've saved by not fixing a manufacturing fault, you've more than lost in repeat business.

Are there any mechanics with access to a service manual which shows that there's a replacement for the beam/s on earlier models? I've just whipped the legal hide off a public body in the High Court and I feel like I'd like to try with the private sector now...
 

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My 2010 Note is now on its 3rd set of rear tyres in 30k miles. The outsides are excessively worn whilst the inside tread shows 3.8mm remaining.
I had an alaignment check done and the rear toe-in is off the scale.
Normal values are min 0.00, standard 2.26 max 4.52. My car is 7.80. No wonder the tyres were being changed as often as the oil.
My dealer, who is very understanding, was only able to suggest that I pay for them to do a full alaignment check and then they would see what Nissan said but was not hopeful that they would even entertain a claim because they would say it was OK when it left the factory and you are out of warranty anyway.
Their 'Good Will' activities still left me to pick up a tidy bill after the aircon packed in a week out of warranty even though the pipe had been corroding through from the day it left the factory.
The engineer in me says "just slip a shim behind the front stub axle bolts". The Elf'n'safety officer in me says "don't be stupid". The sensible chap that I am says "buy a Kia" They are probably no more reliable or better made but at least manufacturing defects will show up within the 7 year warranty period.
My Note satnav/entertainment system and instrument pod had to be replaced but that, thank heavens, was just before the warranty expired. Just what kind of a bill would I have been looking at if it had happened a few weeks later?
Sorry, my Sunderland mates, but loyalty to the flag is getting to be a liability.
 

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You can safely fit shims under thefour rear stub axle bolts, that's what the laser alignment place I use in Liverpool does. Just to make you weep, my rears are on 32k and just past half worn, 0 toe.
 

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There are no problem shimming the rears as long as you loctite the bolts, I cant remember the calculation iirc its well under 2mm of shims

only other way is to swap the complete rear axle but that wont g'tee that you wont have the same problem


Have you swapped the wheels around to see is there is any difference ??
 

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The 4 stub axle bolts are 2" centres, and you have 15 " wheels so if you put 1/15 th of the required toe change under each side front pair of bolts it will be near enough. (Each wheel is 7.5:1)

I put .008 feeler gauges under mine to lose 1/8" at the rims.

Did it ages ago, and nothing has sheared off yet (but tomorrow they could both come off)

When I had the last new tyre the tyre fitter said "Stick another 3psi in the backs" to make it run on the centre of the tread a bit more and take the load off the edges, but this will probably cause death etc. as the contact patch is smaller.

As I said before, it has to be poor quality control at Nissan: the beams must surely be jig welded, and it would write the car off bending one.


Aim for about 1/8" toe-in to drag the back a bit and make it stable in a straight line.



Edited by: mnl
 

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strange, my (2008 model) rear tyres have been perfect with regards to wear caused by poor toe measurement. They wear evenly.
 

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oughtredp said:
www.larkspeed.com/index.pl?p=19575800K&a=i

I have located shim at Larkspeed. Why wreck your feeler gauges when these are so cheap.
Note is called Tiida in USA or Japan so that helps with internet searching.
Unless there is a fault with my browser, these are £8.75 EACH


I would have bought a small roll of shim steel for about £4, but I got a pair of long feeler gauges a lot cheaper and just cut them up.

The DPR shims look the job, I actually cut my shims like the top & bottom ones, so I could get them in, leave a piece sticking out as a handle to hold them whilst you tighten the bolts again.
The ones with the 2 holes in would be better, but you wont get them in place without dismantling a lot, I can't remember what is in the way, but like a lot of jobs that appear simple it is actually quite tricky to get the shim in the front.
 

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The chap at above outfit thinks the Clio shims will fit.
I'm off now to get the car on a top laser alaigner and see just what's needed.
When you think I'm getting through £200 worth of tyres every 15K miles it has to be worth doing. I xpect another couple of m.p.g. as well so that's a 4% reduction of my petrol bill, say £40. This job will pay for its self in no time.
 
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