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How the **** has this post gone on for 31 pages ??????????


It's really got to tell you something about Nissan and their bushes :surprise:.
 

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I'll do my best from memory from when they took me into the inspection pit to show me the problem. The the bar is probably about 8 inches long and goes from the subframe (nearside), vertically and bolts onto the chassis just behind the front wheel. It's difficult to get to, they had to drop the subframe to do the job. Hope this helps and I haven't confused you, let me know if you need any more info.
This is exactly the issue with my 2008 auto - thanks very much for posting the heads up to this forum. The 'bar' braces the nearside rear subframe to the chassis above the UK nearside wheel - I'm tempted to think it'd be better removed. The top of the pressed steel brace causes a pull/flex action on the body that is hidden below the air inlet box, and which cannot be seen from under the wheel arch, though removing the plastic inner wing mud shield might reveal it. The bar is outlined in yellow and the red points to the guilty part.
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This is exactly the issue with my 2008 auto - thanks very much for posting the heads up to this forum. The 'bar' braces the nearside rear subframe to the chassis above the UK nearside wheel - I'm tempted to think it'd be better removed. The top of the pressed steel brace causes a pull/flex action on the body that is hidden below the air inlet box, and which cannot be seen from under the wheel arch, though removing the plastic inner wing mud shield might reveal it. The bar is outlined in yellow and the red points to the guilty part. View attachment 1497

I read your post that you are going to get the welder out to it.

I and Coolhands fixed ours with giant washers and bits of flat bar, by cutting an access hole in the outside.



How I'd fix it with the welder is to notch the end of a long piece of barstock to fit inside the giant inner washer and thread it internally M12 to take the subframe bolt.
Then weld the bar to the washer. Cut the hole from under the wheelarch, fit the bar/washer and stick it to the inner wing in the right place, then drop another big washer over the protruding end of the bar and weld the bar to the washer, and the washer to the inner wing, then slice the excess bar off.

With a bush properly welded to both sides of the chassis rail it ought to stay in place.


I didn't weld mine, as many years of experience have taught me that once you get the welder to a panel, all the waxoil/dinitrol etc. in the world won't stop it rusting to nothing in a couple of years. Also Nissan reckon the car is made of super thin magical high strength treated alloy steel that will crumple up like cooking foil if you weld it :oops:
 

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I read your post that you are going to get the welder out to it.

I and Coolhands fixed ours with giant washers and bits of flat bar, by cutting an access hole in the outside.



How I'd fix it with the welder is to notch the end of a long piece of barstock to fit inside the giant inner washer and thread it internally M12 to take the subframe bolt.
Then weld the bar to the washer. Cut the hole from under the wheelarch, fit the bar/washer and stick it to the inner wing in the right place, then drop another big washer over the protruding end of the bar and weld the bar to the washer, and the washer to the inner wing, then slice the excess bar off.

With a bush properly welded to both sides of the chassis rail it ought to stay in place.


I didn't weld mine, as many years of experience have taught me that once you get the welder to a panel, all the waxoil/dinitrol etc. in the world won't stop it rusting to nothing in a couple of years. Also Nissan reckon the car is made of super thin magical high strength treated alloy steel that will crumple up like cooking foil if you weld it :oops:
Hey, great videos thanks. Mine has a fair size of the chassis box section metal fatigued/cracked away - I'll be posting up before and after photos. I'm getting a 100mm diametex x 21mm thick piece of bar stock welded to the inner box section and threaded the M12x1.75, cut the arm's stand off spacer by the same amount - but might at some time double up like yours on the outside if I ever need to drop the suspension strut.
 

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Hey, great videos thanks. Mine has a fair size of the chassis box section metal fatigued/cracked away - I'll be posting up before and after photos. I'm getting a 100mm diametex x 21mm thick piece of bar stock welded to the inner box section and threaded the M12x1.75, cut the arm's stand off spacer by the same amount - but might at some time double up like yours on the outside if I ever need to drop the suspension strut.

I haven't welded mine, I did exactly what Coolhands has done in the lower video, there is a big washer outside the inner box, a piece of thick bar on the inside, and an access hole behind the shock absorber. It has lasted a few years now.

Like I said, I have a fear of welding causing corrosion problems.
 

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I haven't welded mine, I did exactly what Coolhands has done in the lower video, there is a big washer outside the inner box, a piece of thick bar on the inside, and an access hole behind the shock absorber. It has lasted a few years now.

Like I said, I have a fear of welding causing corrosion problems.
The fatigued hole in the chassis box section, seen from above after removing the air boxes etc.
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Did some lathe time to make a steel plate with an integrated "captive nut" threaded stand off. The bolt thread is M12 x 1.75 if anybody needs that detail,

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How it looks before welding in place, the nut will be welded to the stand off before fitting.
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