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It is


I came really close to paying someone to fix it and then getting rid of it before it starts again
 

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About a year ago there was a topic about water getting into the wells of the top struts and somebody had the idea about covering them. I covered mine with toilet ball floats (cut in half). When I get home (down at my daughters with the laptop at the moment) I will post some pictures as they are on my other computer. Before fitting the covers, I and others coated the top nut with wax oil, to stop it rusting.
 

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Thanks, have you covered right over the hole in the flitch?

I'm not sure it is actually the well with the rusty nut in that was the problem, I filled the gap between the car flitch panel and the outside of that well with silicone spray, slackening the two bolts that I could get at to help the liquid run between the strut top plate and the flitch.

As I said, a few gentle taps with the rubber mallet on the slackened bolts to shock the plate down and let the oil run through quicker probably helped - I had the jack under the crossmember at the time, ready to remove the strut thinking that it was a simple 10 minute job.

There must be some slight movement between the top plate and the flitch.

The amount of noise produced was amazing.

I'm not sure what rotates when the steering moves, there has to be a bearing somewhere maybe water has got into it around that well and now I've got a bit of silicon lube in there it has gone quiet for a few days.
 

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Our Note started making knocking sounds last weekend, have read here all 27 pages of what the problem might be and how much it may be going to cost to fix. Independent garage that I have used for years today looked at the car and have found that the front nearside coil spring has broken. From what I have read here, hopefully that will be all that is wrong, if so I think we will have got off lightly.Will post when fixed
HMB
 

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For what it's worth I offer the following. 2009 1.6 Note Techna. 22,000 miles Inherited from my mother. Carefully used.
With a little right lock and going over a "down bump", say one of the many potholes we enjoy, a real boxy clonk. Straight ahead over any kind of bump. no problem as you would expect from a car of this mileage.
Read the forums and took it to my local Nissan garage were the receptionist kindly stopped chatting to her mate long enough to tell me she had never of this problem (!) and it would cost £45 for a technician to do a diagnosis.
Declined this and took the car to my local garage where the two technicians took time to listen to me describe the problem and look.
Left the car with them for the morning and returned to find they had had put packing between the lower bracing strut and the rear subframe bushes to stop contact between the bar and the subframe. The rear subframe bushes, like many others described here, had sagged to allow occasional contact. I will not waste time with Nissan as they seem to deny there is a problem. Cost £36 for the entire job. Go local......
 

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Mine does that, but it is only once a day (when I catch a ripple in the road going round one island on the way home), it feels right under my feet, and is best described as a "bonk" or as you say boxy clonk"

I looked at changing the anti-roll bar bushes, but

1) mine has the larger anti-roll bar and the bushes are terrifically expensive, the cheap eBay ones are for the smaller bar, as are the polybushes for a clio that are supposed to fit
2) You cannot do it with the car still in one piece, the entire subframe has to drop down to get at the bolts.
 

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BrianP said:
For what it's worth I offer the following. 2009 1.6 Note Techna. 22,000 miles Inherited from my mother. Carefully used.
With a little right lock and going over a "down bump", say one of the many potholes we enjoy, a real boxy clonk. Straight ahead over any kind of bump. no problem as you would expect from a car of this mileage.
Read the forums and took it to my local Nissan garage were the receptionist kindly stopped chatting to her mate long enough to tell me she had never of this problem (!) and it would cost £45 for a technician to do a diagnosis.
Declined this and took the car to my local garage where the two technicians took time to listen to me describe the problem and look.
Left the car with them for the morning and returned to find they had had put packing between the lower bracing strut and the rear subframe bushes to stop contact between the bar and the subframe. The rear subframe bushes, like many others described here, had sagged to allow occasional contact. I will not waste time with Nissan as they seem to deny there is a problem. Cost £36 for the entire job. Go local......

A photo would be spiffing...if you get time.

Cheers
 

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Dear oh dear, I drove over the level crossing in our village and I had the dreaded front suspension knock, booked it into the local garage for inspection and repair, will let you know how we get on and the price to repair it. Is it time to get rid?
 

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Took the Note to the local garage in the village. they confirmed it was the near side front spring, also the near side top suspension bearing mounting bearing was knackered
.So I had two top suspension bearings and two front springs fitted. The total cost including VAT was £303.58.
Not sure how much a Nissan workshop would have charged?
While my Note was being worked on, there was also an Alvis, that was once owned by Douglas Bader. He had about 4 of them, Douglas had Alvis modify the doors (made longer)so he could get in and out of the car easier. As I've said before, "the garage looks as though it's come straight out of "Heartbeat" but they do a first class job on all cars"
 

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Spoke to the garage owner about the springs on the Note. He said mine not the first Note that he's had to change the springs on, also keep an ear out for the rear ones to break. He has noticed with the plastic covered springs,that the breaks happen within the plastic covering of the springs, they hold the water, and accelerate the rusting I asked him if the springs fitted had plastic covering, he replied NO.
But I must say, the new top suspension bearings have smoothed out the steering a lot, money well spent
. When he showed me the top bearings and spun them around, they did growl, so they were buggered. Thinking back, am I the first member to have new top suspension bearings?
 

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That confirms my findings too, stress corrosion cracking accelerated by the plastic sleeve retaining moisture.My top bearings were Ok when I had mine apart but I did relube them, so your bearings going growly is a rarity.
 

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Mine ad this was drop link found out this after I replaced shocks,springs lower arms then back spring snapped and track rod end replaced,if not none of these problems get them 2 check drop links for play mines ad new front end almost
mine was ex hire car
Edited by: Sefton666
 

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Hi

I'm trying to remove the intermediate steering column, but got stuck doing it.

When loosing the bolts the column cannot compress enough to remove it - and therefore I cannot remove it.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Hi Ian, am new to the forum and have had this problem to for sometime and without a cure hopefully to now.Just as you say if a computer doesn't diagnose well you know the answer.Have had 2 different mechanics look at this and had bushings and drop-links fitted but no good.So hopefully at the next opportunity I can get to the garage I will arm them with this information and hope it's job done if I get a result will let you know thanks.
 

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There seems to be an intermittent knock, from the nearside front of the car(depending on road surface), which I haven't investigated as yet. But I suspect the suspension arm bushes, having replaced the drop link last year.

How easy is it to replace the arm, in fact both of them. Not willing to get new bushes, as the price and agro of replacing said bushes would not be too much of a saving, especially in time and agro.

Has anyone used Lemforder or Ocap replacements, as opposed to Nissan parts......any experience and knowledge of the difference between them.
 

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manual or auto ?<div abp="1742">
<div abp="1743">don't mess about with bushes unless you have the tools and a 10 ton press, A arms are simple to change, wheel off, 2 bolts hold it to the car 1 horizontal the other vertical, and a pinch bolt that holds the ball joint to the hub
<div abp="1743">
<div abp="1743">re-assemble is the reverse but do the bolts to body up enough to hold the arm, Jack the hub up so it takes the pressure off the arm before torqueing the bolts so the bushes are not stressed in there normal position
<div abp="1743">
<div abp="1743">OEM arms can be had for £40-60 each if you shop around, if you intend to keep the car pay the extra money
<div abp="1743">
<div abp="1743">
<div abp="1743">I will wait for a reply before I go into detail of the other cause
<div abp="1743">
<div abp="1743">
<div abp="1743">I have my n/s/f arm to do, its always the n/s one that goes as its the side that takes the most punishment on curbs, roundabouts and potholes when the bushes start to wear under acceleration and braking it makes the tire push and pull, buggering up the geometry
 
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