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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So our 2006 1.6 auto SVE with 141k failed it's MOT on Friday evening on just the o/s balljoint and the garage wanted £110 fitted to replace the offending item.

So at 8.45 on Saturday morning off I went to our local motor factors to purchase both lower wishbones as I thought that if one was away, the other wouldn't be far behind, £59.98 for both as had loads of them on the shelf - seemingly a common problem with them then.

In between the fleeting winter showers, I braved the howling wind determined to get it done. Jacked up the car, wheel off and decent squirt of wd40 on the three bolts holding the arm in place.

Released the balljoint bolt (17mm socket and ring spanner) and knocked the bolt out so I could release balljoint by knocking on arm to either side of ballpoint with a long extension bar and a 3lb club hammer. Slackened, but not removed, rear bolt (18mm socket and ring spanner) then 17mm socket and ring spanner to release and remove bolt from the sleeve/bush midway along arm. Then removed the 18mm bolt fully and pulled the arm away from car. Yep, balljoint was knackered.

Started replacement by fitting rear nut and bolt loosely then maneuvering mid sleeve/bush into place with a little tapping from hammer again. Fitted the bolt and just tightened with ring spanner, to prevent myself from cross threading the nut that's welding onto the sub frame, didn't want that to turn into a nightmare, before nipping it up with socket. Tightened the rear bolt up fully and then maneuvered the balljoint into its position again with a little help from the hammer. Inserted the 16mm nut and bolt and tightened fully before refitting the roadwheel and dropping car to the floor. Quick road test and the steering felt great again.

Same setup for n/s but had to jack up the enging & box so that I could get the 17mm bolt out from midway along the arm. Balljoint on this side wasn't quite as bad but was still worn, so worth the effort.
Service history shows that both sides had been replaced by the previous owner in Jan 2018 so they only lasted about 2 years but at least they had used copper slip on the bolts making their removal a lot easier for me. Car back in yesterday afternoon for the retest, so another 12 months ticket on it.

All in about 1hr 15mins to do both sides with just basic tools and on the driveway. Saved me £50 on what garage wanted for just the one side and I've not only got both sides done but a nice little bottle of JD off the wife for getting the MOT sorted so quick - win, win ?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The drop links.......the hardest part is taking the wheel off. :LOL:

Don't get them off Fleabay.
Definitely back to local motor factors. Worst job will be the heater motor which I'm not really looking forward to.
 

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Service history shows that both sides had been replaced by the previous owner in Jan 2018 so they only lasted about 2 years
Crikey, they must have been made of cheese. In 46 years of motoring I have never had to replace a wishbone, they must have been cheapo tat. The originals probably lasted 14 years, hope your new ones are OEM quality.
 

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The heater motor is tough, but if you're not a big fella there is way with removing the dash. However, is does mean dropping the steering column onto the drivers seat, and there is a plastic support that you can cut, and bodge it back later. The heater motor plug is easy enough to see and pull off, the heater blower twists then comes away.
There is thread that explains it better, go to the search box and see what you can find.

//
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Crikey, they must have been made of cheese. In 46 years of motoring I have never had to replace a wishbone, they must have been cheapo tat. The originals probably lasted 14 years, hope your new ones are OEM quality.
Yes I was surprised how soon but I suppose it depends what abuse they've had as wellY
The heater motor is tough, but if you're not a big fella there is way with removing the dash. However, is does mean dropping the steering column onto the drivers seat, and there is a plastic support that you can cut, and bodge it back later. The heater motor plug is easy enough to see and pull off, the heater blower twists then comes away.
There is thread that explains it better, go to the search box and see what you can find.

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Yes I've seen the posts but not daunted too much about dash removal as I had to do it with my Espace to change the passenger airbag but still not looking forward to it
1035
 
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