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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A straight-forward 'how to', without too much detail. Chock back wheels; jack car up; put on axle stands; remove front wheels. I used Pagid discs and pads purchased from eurocarparts.

Using a 13mm socket and 15mm spanner, undo the top and bottom bolts (& remove) as per photo. You can then remove the caliper - (the pads will remain sitting in the carrier) - and rest it up on top of the disc. You can then (if you wish) pull the 'sliding pins' (they are inside the rubber boot) off of the carrier. Keep them very clean - they have caliper grease on them and should be spotless inside the rubber. If they aren't then obviously clean them right up.





After removing the cap on the brake fluid reservoir (in the engine bay), gently push back the caliper piston. I have a proper tool to do this - you may need to improvise with a large g clamp or similar.



Next remove the two carrier bolts using a 17mm socket. They are very tight and I used a long 'breaker bar' to crack them off. After that you can use a normal ratchet.



With the carrier removed undo the brake disc retaining torx bolt using a 40 torx and an impact driver. I doubt you will remove it without an impact driver - you may round it off in which case you will be in trouble. It is easy with an impact driver.





With the disc removed, clean up the hub face with some harsh emery paper - remove any surface rust



After putting the new disc on and replacing the disc retaining torx bolt, put the new pads into the carrier (after cleaning up the sliding surfaces)



Take the carrier and pads to the disc, and tighten the two 17mm bolts



After the carrier is secured, slide both pads in flat to the disc surface with your hands:



Reattach the two sliding pins to the carrier, and then offer up the caliper assembly and position correctly







Using the supplied (with Pagid) new bolts, tighten the caliper with the 13mmm socket and 15mm spanner

Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18 Show Content




Job done; do everything up with a torque wrench; do the other side; check brake fluid level (I had to bleed some fluid out as after I had completed both sides, the fluid level was overfilled) and remember to do up reservoir cap.

Road test; inititally the brakes will have poor 'bite'. Bed in as per manufacturer instructions.




Edited by: flash22
 

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<div abp="872">Update: Torque settings
<div abp="873">
<div abp="874">

<div abp="875">
<div abp="875"><div abp="353">Torx disc retaining screw.
<div abp="354">
<div abp="355">Tight but not over tight - Just nipped up, There only there to aid assembly tbh, The wheel bolts hold it all in place<div abp="356">
<div abp="357">The book says 13.9nm or 10 Ft Lb in old money for the torx, as I said above just nipped up

<div abp="359">
<div abp="360">Alight smear of copper slip or anti seize on the bolt helps too
<div abp="361">
<div abp="362">Disc retaining Torx bolt<div abp="364">.
Renault - 7703004176<div abp="367">Nissan- 01422-S801E
<div abp="369">
<div abp="371">
<div abp="373">FYI. the note only uses 1 retaining screw (the discs fit loads of cars)



<div abp="876">
Good how to - pin worthy<div abp="877">
<div abp="878">2 things i would do different clean the pad guides and copper slip the back of the pads where thay need it
<div abp="879">
<div abp="880">
<div abp="881">Pinned !!!!! and title edited !!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks

for two more pics, one of the brake fluid reservoir cap, (it's on the drivers side near the windscreen for anyone not sure) and one showing how low my original pads were compared with new. This was just shy of 26,000 miles. So they should definately be checked carefully every approx 20,000 miles. (this was is an auto so heavier on the brakes than a manual car).



 

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top info coolhands, my new disc/pads squeaked for awhile during light braking but after a couple of hundred they are now nice and quiet, I changed mine at 22k (also an auto) I could of gone a bit more but that would of left me working on the drive in the cold weather and cold fingers on slippy spanners equals busted knuckles.
 

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Hi
just though i would put my two penneth in yeah got my brake discs +pads+rear shoes
from a auto-parts company on eBay for £67.00 including next day delivery.
hear all the stories about fake bits and poor quality but they had 100% feed back so
gave it a try.
Good call ,i did not do the job , got my local garage to do for me .Cost £60 all in and he said they were the same part he would normally use ( generic parts ).
So i think had a good deal £127.00 all in front and back. It will last me as i do about 8000
miles a year.
 

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Excellent write up. I just joined up to see if I could find some info prior to changing the pads and discs this weekend - and found exactly what I needed. Thanks.
 

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Great help...replaced discs and pads on son's Note......not sure of torque settings so just used the old best guess. Got discs and pads for £60 incl postage and next day delivery...bargain!Thanks very much - photos particularly useful. Calum and son Aran.
 

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Great How to! I replaced pads and disks a few days ago, everything seems good at the moment.

Like you I also bought Pagid pads/disks fromeurocarparts, got a good discount code so only paid £60.

One question, I didn't have to bleed any fluid from the system after resetting the calipers, and the fluid is still nowhere near the max line, should I top it up with some more DOT4?

Thanks again
 

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Possibly depending how near to the low line it is, the probable reason it's not near the top is because there's wear in the rear brake shoes that's been taken up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I would top it up, yes. Not RIGHT to the line, but within say, 5mm.
 

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just been browsing through the forum and found this thread on changing front brake pads, as I will have to change my front pads in the near future I found it to be very informative and easy to follow, many thanks. Can I just offer a tip given to me many years ago from a mechanic friend of mine as regards to pushing the caliper pistons back :- instead of pushing all that old brake fluid back through the master cylinder and into the reservoir connect a bleed pipe to the bleed screw and not forgetting to put the pipe into a suitable container you then undo the bleed screw thus enabling you to push the piston back without to much effort! Don't forget to tighten the bleed screw when the piston is all the way back, carry on and fit the pads in the usual way, when done top up the reservoir and give the front brakes a bleed just to be sure that there's no air lock. Think about - no old fluid in the system and your half way to a brake fluid change ( just find time to bleed the rear) I've been doing like this for years and have not had any problems.
 

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Excellent how to!

Did mine this morning using these.



I think I needed to!



I to would tend to let the fluid out of the bleed nipple as I was told (and it was in the Haynes manual of my old Galaxy) that pushing fluid back past the ABS system was a bad idea??

On doing the job my old pads had anti-squeal shims as did the caliper piston. I kept the ones on the pistons as they were fine and copper greased the contact points on the caliper body and fitted the pads without the corroded shims.

One thing that is not on the How to is cleaning of the protective oil that is usually on new discs to stop them from corroding. I use this.



But meths or IPA (rubbing alcohol) would do as well.

Some copper grease on the inside of the wheel to stop it from welding itself to the hub!



The only other thing that I did which was not mentioned was to put a dab of Loctite 243 (the blue stuff) on the caliper to hub mounts as there was traces of this on the 17mm bolts when I removed them.
 

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My Mintex kit came with new 17mm bolts complete with blue goo.
 

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copper isnt a good idea on alloys as it may cause them react
 

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Hello.....Just a little question....why do you need the open end spanner on the inside of the caliper when you undo the main nut....On all my other cars i've done this on, it's only had the top and bottom bolts which undo and come straight out...sorry if this sounds a bit dim...
 

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David Garside said:
Hello.....Just a little question....why do you need the open end spanner on the inside of the caliper when you undo the main nut....On all my other cars i've done this on, it's only had the top and bottom bolts which undo and come straight out...sorry if this sounds a bit dim...
The sliding pin would spin and you would not be able to undo the caliper.
 
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