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Discussion Starter #1
Gave my parents' E11 1.6L auto a service today, including replacing the front pads - easiest brake pad job I've ever done :)

I had to give up on my plan to replace the belt though. I've read the procedure in the FSM, and I think I located the tension adjustment bolt by feel, but how the hell are you supposed to get a socket onto it cleanly? It's difficult enough just to get your hand up there, never mind a ratchet handle.

I experimented by using a 14mm 1/4 deep socket and I think I got onto it, but I wouldn't be happy that I could apply any force to the ratchet handle without the socket coming off the bolt and potentially rounding it. Do you need a swivel-head ratchet or something like that? I'm sure there's a knack or trick to it, but I couldn't work it out in the time I had.

I wasn't sure that I'd properly interpreted the instructions for replacing the belt either. Can someone tell me if this is correct?

1. Crack off the nut in the middle of the tensioner pulley. Just loosen it slightly, no more than a 45 degree turn.

2. Loosen the tension adjustment bolt until you can get the old belt off.

3. Move the tensioner pulley as far as possible to the right and tighten the nut just a little to hold it there (the FSM says 4 Nm).

4. Install the new belt.

5. Tighten the tension adjustment bolt until the correct tension is reached.

6. Tighten the tensioner pulley bolt properly.

It's so much easier with spring-loaded automatic tensioners... :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, I saw that before, which is why I tried the 14mm 1/4 deep socket, but I wasn't confident that I could apply any force without the socket slipping off the bolt.

What about my interpretation of the FSM procedure for replacing the belt? The part that I really wasn't sure about was the bit where you're supposed to push the pulley as far as possible to the right (towards the radiator), then tighten it by a small amount, then install the new belt, then tension it, then tighten the pulley bolt properly.
 

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You don't need any force to speak of, if you do the adjuster centre nut is too tight.

Moving the adjuster pulley towards the radiator slackens the adjustment to fit the belt, fit it and tighten the adjuster.

I had this brilliant idea that I could remove that centre nut, and substitute a longer nut so that I could get a spanner onto it from the top and not have to replace half the splashguard clips.
So I took the nut right off to find out the thread size

The adjuster fell apart, and you cannot get the bits back in without dismantling half the car, I had to take the alternator off and move it out of the way.

I have a much better plan now, I don't bother adjusting the belt.

(The noise the belt makes is lost in the horrendous rattling from the exhaust, and the air-con gave out a while ago so it only has to turn the alternator and water pump)
 

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It looks like the right order to me. Slacken pinch bolt; loosen tensioner; remove belt; fit new belt; tighten tensioner. That's it really!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Except the FSM states that once you've got the old belt off, you're meant to pull then tensioner pulley all the way over to the right (towards the rad) and tighten the locknut to 4 Nm (so that the pulley doesn't tilt) before you install the new belt. Then you tension it, and finally you torque the locknut to 35 Nm.

It's the "tighten to 4 Nm" bit. I've no idea what 4 Nm feels like... still, an inch-pound torque wrench is only about £30 on Amazon :)
 

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Did you manage to sort this? I had the aux belt off on our 06' Note this morning. I used a 14mm spanner and another 16mm spanner and locked them end to end which gave enough torque to undo the tensioner centre nut.
 

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4 nm pressure is roughly what you get if you use your little finger only to pull on the end of a standard length spanner, and then only without forcing it. It's not a lot.!
 

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Hello, i'm jumping on here as i'm about to change the belt on my 1.6 E11 Auto petrol.

I'm struggling to find right tensions though can anyone help?
 

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When I removed my belt I pushed the belt upwards from the bottom and marked on the engine where the tension was then matched that when installing the new one.
 
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