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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After giving my Note diesel a good wash I decided to remove the front wheels to rotate them to even out the tyre wear. My car is a 60 reg with 15k on the clock & has had 2 main dealer services. After jacking the car & removing the wheel bolts, I could not budge the wheels at all.
I turned steering on full lock, got under the front of car (now on axle stands) & proceeded to hammer the wheel with a wooden block againgst the rim.
I tried this method for about 30 minutes, but the wheel would not come off. I took the car to main dealer later in the day for them to swap the wheels for me.
I have driven 44 ton trucks for many years in the past & never had this problem removing a wheel. They did this for me without any charge. I queried as to why the wheels had not been removed in previous services. I was promptly told that they are not removed & swapped until the third service.
Just as well I, or my wifehad not hada puncture.
 

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Had the same problem a few months ago, good tips from the forum and I was able to get my wheels off with a block of wood and a quite a few blows with a club hammer and a lot of swearing
make sure you clean up the wheels and hubs and smear the hubs with copperslip grease to prevent it happening again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
planet13, I did just that with the copperslip when i got home... but they had already put some on around the hub edges. I also tried the block of wood & club hammer to no avail + the swearing. My dealer also deal with Ford cars, the mechanic told me they had the same but more serious problem with a KA recently. The only way they could budge the wheels was by loosening the bolts slightly, then driving the car round their yard.
 

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Bit of an extreme way to get your wheels off but at least it works
can't see why all manufacturers don't apply some anti seize grease at the factory. I'm sure a lot of people have had this problem regardless what make of car they have purchased.
 

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a few years ago thay use to doa plastic film what goes inbetween the alloy and disc
Its just a case of the alloy reacting with cast pig iron in the discs what exacerbated by the hot/cold and rtf
 

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Most cars have stuck on wheels after a few years. Don't use a lump hammer and a block of wood. Too tiring! Slacken the wheel bolts a tad and go for a drive up your drive on full lock, Bingo! Use coppa-slip on the flange when you put it all back together. Keep the threads clean though or you'll be over tightening them.
 

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The last post saved my bacon. Had a puncture ,in the dark, middle of nowhere , dogs and my wife with me. Could I remove the wheel ? Could I fcuk. I have driven land rovers for years and never had a problem swapping a wheel. After doing the usual male frustration things of kicking , levering and swearing I began to wonder if there was something weird about this particular car. Read the above idea of loosening wheel nuts and driving at full lock. I loosened the bolts one turn from hand tight and drove the car backwards and forwards at full lock one way the the other. It took two attempts, one very cautious and one a bit more energetic but still only ten feet there and back . It worked . Thinking about the physics, why wouldn't it. I suppose you need to be careful not to loosen so much that you do damage when the wheel loosens but at one turn it only moves a mm or so and you can't feel it happen. Anyway , thanks for the above... Very helpful and It saved me from a long walk in the dark down country lanes to find a lonely house with a telephone. We all know how that sort of thing ends.
Edited by: Spackweasel
 

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To get mine off when doing a service I don't risk damaging the soft alloy with a steel stud, I just pour a kettle of boiling water on the alloy/hub contact area and let physics do the rest. Then copper-slip on assembly.I'm a bit lazy...like!
 
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