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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi
I have 1.6L Tenka Automatic now & wish to know the correct engine oil to use as it is over 3 years old & does'nt need Nissan anymore.
The last time I had my older 2006 Nissan Note 1.4L serviced at a Nissan garage the oil they used was Nissan's 10W-40 Semi Synthetic engine oil.
I now believe that the oil being used in a Nissan Note's engine is 5W-40 Fully Synthetic.
I'm sure I read somewhere that the Nissan Note engine covering 12,500 miles per year does not require fully synthetic oil.
Would it harm the engine to use fully synthetic & what grade ie recommended.
Incidently I believe also that the genuine nissan engine oil filters are fitted with an anti-drain device which helps engine wear on start-up.
If this is true then it's nissan's oil filters for me. Any pointers on this?
 

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Hi, 5W-30W is prefered according to FSM but in our climate 10W-30W is perfectly OK, fully or semi synth is OK too! haven't seen the inside of Nissans filters but ideally you should not drive away having just let go of the key anyway! as you need to give the oil time to build up pressure and feed the camshaft bearings and the variable cam timing module. So if you get in, start the car then put the seat belt on, thisgives plenty of time for both.
 

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5w30 fully synthetic is what you want, (VVT engines like 30 weight oils)
I wouldn't risk semi-synthetic, the price of a new engine is too much.

Modern engines are <strike>poorly</strike> designed so that the slightest gummy or dirty deposit in a minuscule oilway will wreck the whole thing.







Have a look for Castrol Magnatec 5w30 half price at Halfords: comes up
every 6 weeks or so, but they package it in 4 litre packs, so you need
to buy 3 to do 2 oil changes, as you need a shade over 4 litres in a 1.6.

Most oil filters have the anti-drainback valve: just a rubber flap under the outer ring of holes.
The springy ball bearing affair that you sometimes see looking down the central hole is a bypass for when the filter blocks up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for reply mdvineng & mnl so now know the oil grade.
In my army days whilst driving we were taught to start engines & get it under power immediately & not to let the engine tick over. No problem on tick-over once engine was up to temp.
The reason being that under engine load whilst driving the oil reaches the top of the engine & places where tick-over can't.
Firing up the engine & putting on the seat belt before setting off won't harm the modern engine as I see it & the oils are far more refind these days.
Cheers
 

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And there weren't that many OHC engines with plain alloy bearing caps to destroy!
 

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1st service it had fully synth magnatec last year thay used mobil 1 iirc
most modern cars use high grade esp som of the sportier fords/volvos

not like my old mini clubman (79), you stick duckhams 10w40 (in a metal can, remeber them)in it and it would run sweet as a nut, a drop in the top of the SU carb kept the throttle smooth too
 

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when I was a calf back in the early 70s we would mix grease and paraffin to make 'oil' for our old motorbikes...you won't get away with that now! Mind you, we did a lot of crazy things back then, like skimming and lapping cylinder heads to increase compression, making pistons lighter by filing the skirts off and adding tins of Ronson lighter fluid to the fuel for an octane boost (actually a DETONATION boost but we didn't know or care, it made the thing go like stink before it exploded). Modern motors would die of shock if you tried any of that...bloody namby pamby fwd abs ridden crumple zone bearing alloy wheeled hunks of ....(crashes off into the undergrowth muttering...)



Edited by: SneakyElephant
 

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flash22 said:
not like my old mini clubman (79), you stick duckhams 10w40 (in a metal can, remeber them)in it and it would run sweet as a nut, a drop in the top of the SU carb kept the throttle smooth too





Ah, memories of topping the dashpot up.



Check your local Tesco for oils. Mine was running a promo of fully synth oils at less than GSF, my 'normal' suplier.
 

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I have 5 Liters of fully synthetic 0w20 leftover from my last car, can i use that in my 1.4 Notewhen it's time for the next oil change. ?
 

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The short answer is NO, spec is 5w-30w.
 

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20 weight is too light, Nissan recommend 30 minimum.

The 0 shouldn't be a problem, the 1st figure is basically a measure of the cranking resistance when cold, the second figure is the viscosity when hot.

I wouldn't put it in mine...
 

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OK, i better keep it at stock then.

Having a 1.4 that takes only 3.4 liters i can get away with buying just 1 x 4 liter canister, and
luckily the Magnatec is at sale here right now..
 

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eton nassin said:
Thanks for reply mdvineng & mnl so now know the oil grade.
In my army days whilst driving we were taught to start engines & get it under power immediately & not to let the engine tick over. No problem on tick-over once engine was up to temp.
The reason being that under engine load whilst driving the oil reaches the top of the engine & places where tick-over can't.
Firing up the engine & putting on the seat belt before setting off won't harm the modern engine as I see it & the oils are far more refind these days.
Cheers
Revving the engine before driving will get the oil up to pressure and in all the right places without the engine being under load. Putting it under load will not make the oil get around the engine any quicker.
 

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There are loads of opinions on this.

Me. I like to let it tick over for a few seconds, to give the oil a chance to get round the cam bearings, then I dont like to rev the engine hard until the temperature gauge has got to normal (Curse you Nissan, with your penny pinching
)

If you watch Wheeler Dealers, both Ed and Mike rev the proverbials off an engine the instant it fires.


When I had the MGB, I used to give it a good spin on the starter to give the oil pump a chance, before I pulled out the choke to let it fire. (I reckon I could change the starter easier than engine bearings)
 

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+1 mnl,
also even revving an engine not under load via the gearbox, you are subjecting the crank bearings to centrifical loads and without adequate oil pressure, wear occurs. The oil is only there to stop the two touching and apart from the pressure from the pump there is also pressure wave created by the rotation of the crankshaft itself. Someone did a test on an engine way back using coca cola as a lubricant but they had to use an external extreme hi pressure pump to do so, it worked for so long and the smell of burnt sugar wasn't good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hi Hodsgod
In me good old army days anyone who fired up an engine and then sat & revved it up to circulate the oil would have been on a charge.
An engine is always better under load to get the juices going.
 

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eton nassin said:
Hi Hodsgod
In me good old army days anyone who fired up an engine and then sat & revved it up to circulate the oil would have been on a charge.
An engine is always better under load to get the juices going.
In my army days, and I was a driver in the RCT it was never mentioned. However I talk from my experience of working in engine plants too. One in dagenham and one in Sunderland. The advice you were given makes no sense to me.

Dvr hodsgod 24517648Edited by: Hodsgod
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Does that mean to say that the advice drilled into me was incorrect?
And here was me thinking that we were all singing from the same hymn sheet in the army.
I was in the MT section of my battalion and obviously my senior NCO's & officers were of different opinions to the RCT.
Having been to training school/classes for driving whilst in the army I stick by my statement that I posted to you.
Judging by your army number I see you were in long after me so maybe, just maybe things had changed since I was in.
We can go on about this but for me I'll put it to bed.
All the best.

Cpr redram-2008
23450609
 

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If you are after engine oil, Halfords can't get rid of Magnatec, so it is back at £17.50 for 4 litres
 
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