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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2008 Note 1.6 Auto. Great little car but now has a problem. It starts great but after 15 minutes of smooth driving, it starts holding back (stuttering) around 2000 rpm. It's not constant but extremely annoying. T preed around 60mph this problem is barely noticeable. Our local mechanic suggests a blocked fuel filter but I cant see this as being the cause....why doesn't the problem occur straight from the off. Reading up on the web it seems that the possible problem would be the coil pack. I know nothing much about cars so would appreciate some advice. BTW the mechanic is local and has a good reputation.
 

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I'd ask myself when did i last have the car serviced?
How long has the fuel filter, spark plugs etc been in situ?
BTW Jon i like your cat.. He/she is just like ours except for the blue eyes.
 

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He is likely thinking that as it isn't registering any fault, it must be something that isn't measured by the ecu.

I'd have thought a blocked filter would have caused low fuel pressure and set a code, same with a problem with the vent system- but an easy check on the vent system would be to open the fuel cap when it starts to stutter, and see if it cures it for another 20 minutes.

I'd guess at the crank sensor, these often give trouble when the engine is hot, and often don't set a fault code, even though they should as soon as there is an error between crank and cam pulses.

Could be coil packs I suppose. Trouble with modern cars is you can throw thousands of pounds at them chasing a fault if you don't know what it is!


The fuel filter is actually inside the fuel tank, attached to the pump and gauge unit. It can be removed through the hole in the floor under the back seat. I suspect you can't buy just the filter, a new unit is probably hundreds of pounds from Nissan, but no doubt a generic filter can be made to fit. They last forever if you don't fill the tank with mud or water, only clean petrol.
 

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I agree with mnl in the post above, you can throw good money after bad. Mrs B had a 3 cyl Skoda Fabia (Polo engine) which was diagnosed as ‘burning out’ coil packs, at approx £40 a pop. It happened so often that she carried a spare! After failing again, on the M25, the RAC man suggested new plugs. Fortunately we weren’t far from a Halfords branch.

We sold the car a couple of months later, after having no further trouble of any sort.

Moral? If you’ve got to spend, try the cheapest bits first! Hopefully yours will be as easy a repair as this turned out to be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'd ask myself when did i last have the car serviced?
How long has the fuel filter, spark plugs etc been in situ?
BTW Jon i like your cat.. He/she is just like ours except for the blue eyes.
Thanks for these pointers. Car serviced a year ago but have not traveled much or far since Covid. Dont think he changed the filter or plugs (not the same mechanic as the one I'll use). See more replies to other ideas. Cheers
He's a great cat, picked him up as a stray kitten in the streets of Cairo. Has Cerebellar Hypoplasia, now got cataracts and paralysis of the back end....still cheerful and active.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I agree with mnl in the post above, you can throw good money after bad. Mrs B had a 3 cyl Skoda Fabia (Polo engine) which was diagnosed as ‘burning out’ coil packs, at approx £40 a pop. It happened so often that she carried a spare! After failing again, on the M25, the RAC man suggested new plugs. Fortunately we weren’t far from a Halfords branch.

We sold the car a couple of months later, after having no further trouble of any sort.

Moral? If you’ve got to spend, try the cheapest bits first! Hopefully yours will be as easy a repair as this turned out to be.
Thanks for the advice, I'll recommend new plugs, maybe they will work. Car's not worth much in the market but really useful, especially what you can get in the back. Need to get it running smoothly as I need it for work. Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
He is likely thinking that as it isn't registering any fault, it must be something that isn't measured by the ecu.

I'd have thought a blocked filter would have caused low fuel pressure and set a code, same with a problem with the vent system- but an easy check on the vent system would be to open the fuel cap when it starts to stutter, and see if it cures it for another 20 minutes.

I'd guess at the crank sensor, these often give trouble when the engine is hot, and often don't set a fault code, even though they should as soon as there is an error between crank and cam pulses.

Could be coil packs I suppose. Trouble with modern cars is you can throw thousands of pounds at them chasing a fault if you don't know what it is!


The fuel filter is actually inside the fuel tank, attached to the pump and gauge unit. It can be removed through the hole in the floor under the back seat. I suspect you can't buy just the filter, a new unit is probably hundreds of pounds from Nissan, but no doubt a generic filter can be made to fit. They last forever if you don't fill the tank with mud or water, only clean petrol.
Thanks for the info. One thing re: fault codes. When I start the car a "code" appears on the dash display 14376 with a symbol at the end that looks like a spanner....any clue what this is?
 

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Thanks for the info. One thing re: fault codes. When I start the car a "code" appears on the dash display 14376 with a symbol at the end that looks like a spanner....any clue what this is?
Funny you mention mud and water, the mechanic advised me to run it on premium to see if it made a difference, it didn't . I've heard all the stories about this dodgy petrol.
 

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Thanks for the info. One thing re: fault codes. When I start the car a "code" appears on the dash display 14376 with a symbol at the end that looks like a spanner....any clue what this is?
That is the countdown distance to the next service, it can be reset easily to any multiple of 1000 I think, the Nissan distance for the 1.6 is 18,000 miles! (The oil must be like treacle by then ;) )

If there is an important fault the yellow check engine light (EML) comes on. The ECU does store fault codes that can be easily read with a cheap OBD reader, not all of them put the light on.
 
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