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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Following a recent thread i decided to dissect a spare drivers door switch i have<div abp="906">
<div abp="907">The driver side door switch is a open contact design and can be affected by ingress of water or other fluids
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<div abp="909">Once you take the door switch out of the car undo the 3 screws to remove it from the trim
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<div abp="919">There are 3 clips/tabs either side undo these with a small flat blade and the white back pops off
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<div abp="924">The board is just held in place by the switches just carefully leaver the board out
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<div abp="929">The drivers switch has an open contact design and its just6 contacts that operate the switch by sliding across contacts strips on the pcb
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<div abp="940">For reference i took apart one of the toggle switches
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<div abp="948">On the note switch theres only 2 leds 1 standard led for the drivers switch illumination and a smd led (surface mount led) on the window lockout button what will need the push button switch desoldering to gain access to replace the led, looking at the pcb there are spaces for standard 3mm leds to illuminate the other 3 switches
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<div abp="950">All switches have a tiny bit of silicon grease in them to keep them lubricated
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<div abp="952">any questions please feel free to ask
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<div abp="954">repairs should be straight forward if you need a swich sorted out pm me
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
spent a few more hours over the last few days working out the led circuits - i have some smd leds on order and a mix of smd resistors too
not quite as simple as i first thought due to the waythe ledsgets its power from the cpu (encoder output)with a supply that changes from 5v to 10v, if you have rear elecy windows the rear led circuits are also switched via the rear window lock out button what in turn when the lock out is pressed led 1 (smd led under the L/out switch) iluminates

Due to the way the switch pcbs are built building aone touch systemfor all windows is overly complex due to the encoder and the way the cpu deals with the limit switches - total closure looks easier todo tbh it will only need 6-7 wires and small pcb that would fit in the drivers door

In short there isonly 1 led as standard controlled by 2 smd resistors apart from the L/out button

Over time i can see the dual coil relay failing (taiko tb2-160) intrestingly these are also a common part built into most bcm's

Edited by: flash22
 

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Thanks for an extremely helpful post!

I was replacing the drivers door mirror on a Note at the same time as I had a "dicky" window switch.

Opened the widow OK when removing the door trim etc, but on replacement couldn't get the window to close.This was half expected as the switch is on the way out - my remedy has been not to use it until I get a reasonably priced replacement...

Took it off and followed the guide here and stripped it down. Looks fine except for a bit of muck on the drivers window contacts. Cleaned them and reset the spring loaded contacts slightly.

Noticed something, and maybe you can help. Of the 2 spigots holding the white plastic contact holder in place, the smaller of the 2 does not keep that side in place firmly. This allows that side to float freely. Do you think this how it's designed - to maybe allow better contact on the slider switch, OR do you think it should be firmly fixed.

When firmly fixed the switch appears to operate better. So I'm wondering whether or not to "fix" it or leave it as it is.

Any comments would be appreciated.
 

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Firmly in place as this will maintain contact pressure.
 

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Yes , thanks, I went for that. Refitted the switch and the jobs a good'un!!

Just to repeat for any anyone else with the apparently common problem on the drivers door switch on the Note (or the Qashqai which is the same) - following the procedure here, and then cleaning the contacts with contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol, and maybe slightly readjusting them to give a better contact, might work wonders and save you coughing up for a new switch.
 

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And don't forget to add some silicon grease, acts as a lube and an anti oxidant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ah good if you look at the white peice with the switch contacts in and the the place where it sits, when you push or pull the switch the post rocks in a groove tothe first position pull it up to the 2nd pos(auto up)or push down for auto down and it slides the contact block to the furthest point on the contact on the pcb
it does need a tiny dab of silicon grease just to help it slide and prevent wear to the contacts and a tiny amount on the tip of the switch shaft and the groove in the contact block

Edited by: flash22
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It will help, the grease does get contaminated
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
little update
To get all leds working you will need 1210* or 1206 size 1800ohm or 1k8 smd resistors 4 standard 3mmleds or ultra brightand one smd led (1210* or 1206 size)

the following resistor are todo with the leds

R27
R28
R29
R30 (Present)
R31 (present)
R32

led placement and and direction are marked on the pcb, the smd is for the rear window lockout you will need to remove the lockout switch from the pcb from to install the smd led

For the passenger and rear switches to illuminate you will need to drill the switch tops and fill with resin so the light can shine through

the switch and led mounting holes are through board soldered connections ie. the hole is copper lined so the solder goes through the pcb, itsnot just ona pad on one side, this makesit harder to desolder items from the board

*1210 size smd leds and resistors seem to bit pricey and not as easy to get hold of as the 1206
 

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Thank you very much for this advice.We have saved a considerable amount of cash by following this step by step guide to fix our dodgy window switch,we'll see how it goes.Thanks once again.
 

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I noticed the other day that 'auto up' has stopped working on my drivers window(the 2nd position for 'up' works just like the 1st).

Prior to it not working at allthe window would 'auto-up' OK, but then would reverse just as it was almost closed. I always put this down to the window going too tight as it entered the seals and I just 'put up with it' and closed the window with the 1st position of the switch.

Normal up and down and 'auto-down' are still all fine, as are the other three windows, which I assume suggests that I need to clean the switch contacts as above.Has anyone found that cleaning and re-lubricating the drivers window switch fixes a problem like this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
With the switch pulled up on the second click the slide block contacts sit in the middle and at the end of the tracks
The window sounds like its bouncing back as it nears the top usually a squirt of silicon spray in the rubbers sorts it
 

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Great post.I have already dismantled my switch, found really dirty contacts and cleaned them. On putting the switch back together must have misaligned something because it worked for a while before the switch physically locked. Took it apart and the plastic toggle is broken. So need a new switch. Scrap yards are very expensive.
Any ideas on how I can fix it or buy a reasonably priced replacement?
Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Find a qashqai or a note the drivers door switch from nissan is £120 plus vat

The usual way I find stuff is search eBay for "nissan note breaking" or "nissan qashqai breaking" and ask the seller

Price ranges from about £30 to 70

I may have spares from a sacraficial switch I have Pm me a pic of the part what's broken
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Reassembly.so you don't break the drivers window switch you need to reassembly it correctly

the slider and rocker assembly need to go in the top half of the switch the pcb then goes on top followed by the white/clear case







 

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Replaced the switch and it works a treat.Thanks for your help and advice, saved some cash and repaired it without a complete replacement. Great result.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
no problem, happy to help
 

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Thanks for all the info in this thread.

My recently purchased 08 plate Note 1.6 Tekna auto has a problem with the rear window lock switch on the driver door - it doesn't work. Pressing the switch won't lock the windows, it seemingly has no effect, they can still be opened/closed.

I guess I will have to investigate the state of the contacts on this switch.

Rob.

Edited by: robd
 
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