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Yes, but the particles are burnt above the speed of over 37mph approx.

If the car is driven slowly for a good length of time, the particulates accumulate. Driving in a safe manner at high speed(above 37mph), will reduce the levels, by burning them off.

When the accumulated particulates has been completely burnt, the filter warning light will go off.



If the car is driven continuously at low speeds with the filter warning light on, the 'fail safe' will limit the engine revs and torque.
In this case, the engine oil must be replaced, and the process of burning accumulated particulate matter, must be carried out by a qualified workshop/garage.







Edited by: Boysie
 

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Regeneration of a blocked DPF IIRC costs around £300 (gulp!).
 

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If it is anything like the Citroens, they stand the car on concrete, connect the service pod thingie to the diagnostic socket, activate regeneration, and go and have lunch.
The engine then revs to the governor and stays there until the DPF gets hot enough to burn away the crud.

This costs £300, but they don't actually do anything.

They have to stand it on concrete, as the exhaust gets so hot that it will melt tarmac

You can do the same thing with a long thrash along the motorway.
 

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soorploom said:
Out of curiosity, I have a 2012 Note Acenta 1.5 DCI, is it fitted with a DPF?

Hi Jimmy,
Yes it does and you should have no issues with it. They normally only go wrong for people that do very smalljourneys with low revs, in which case a petrol car would be the best.

The small journeys and low revs can be an issue for some modern cars with a DPF.
One solution for this type of issue is to go for a run on the motorway in 4th gear, keeps the revs up.

I do around 50 miles per day and my DPF is fine.
I do have inside knowledge on DPFs as I'm the Global Quality Manager for one of the world leading support mat suppliers (our mat is wrapped around the DPF and then stuffed into s steel tube, some withstands temps up to 1200C).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the replies. I do two short journeys each dayMonday to Friday and a longer journey on a weekend day but I live in a very rural area but you have just convinced me I should do a burner, what? once a week?
Thanks for the help
 

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mnl said:
If it is anything like the Citroens, they stand the car on concrete, connect the service pod thingie to the diagnostic socket, activate regeneration, and go and have lunch.
The engine then revs to the governor and stays there until the DPF gets hot enough to burn away the crud.

This costs £300, but they don't actually do anything.

They have to stand it on concrete, as the exhaust gets so hot that it will melt tarmac

You can do the same thing with a long thrash along the motorway.





Yep, the £300 covers standing around and resetting the DPF warning light.



A lovely 'little earner' for the service department.
 

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soorploom said:
Thanks for the replies. I do two short journeys each dayMonday to Friday and a longer journey on a weekend day but I live in a very rural area but you have just convinced me I should do a burner, what? once a week?
Thanks for the help

How far do you travel on your short journeys, and what maximum speed do you usually achieve.?

No point in wasting fuel, if you don't need to. But if your journeys are that short, then take a few miles detour on the way home, and give it a longer run over 37mph if possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
My short journeys are only around 8 miles and get up to 60mph for around a mile. Funny you mentioning that, yesterday, I took a detour of around five miles and was at 50mph and kept it in fourth gear to get the revs up.As it happens, every other week I vist my daughter about 35 miles away and can get over 40 mph for nearly all the way, there and back. Will that journey every fortnight help the situation or is that too little?
 

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Anything over 40mph is fine, and it seems you're doing that for the majority of your journeys so you'll be fine.

No need to keep it in 4th, as long as you're over that 40mph threshold........why waste fuel.


NEVER let the engine idle for long periods. If you're stuck in traffic(road works etc.), turn the engine off.


Edited by: Boysie
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all your help Boysie it is appreciated. While I am on, I know I am a pest. I have only done 3,000 miles in the car so far and checked the oil which was fine then I thought, what is the best engineoil you can recommend for the 1.5 Acenta DCI? I onlywant a litre to keep in the boot just in case.
 

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I use Shell Helix plus Synthetic Diesel oil. 10w/40.

You need to check your service record, or ask the previous owner/garage, what oil was used in your cars last service.
I use well known branded oils, even though they are a bit more expensive.

I never carry it in the car, as my engine has never needed a top up in nearly 58,000 miles of driving, since new from 2012.
I've never carried any oil, in any car I've owned. As I check my oil weekly, I have no need to clutter up my boot space.
Keep any top up oil in your shed or garage, unless your engine uses a lot of oil. Why carry extra weight when you don't need to. Plus it makes a mess if it leaks. It is also a flammable liquid.

If you check your oil/fluids weekly, you will see if you need to top it up. If so, fetch it from the shed/garage and top it up, but never over fill it. Then put it back in the shed/garage.




Edited by: Boysie
 

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+1for Boysie, always buy the best oil that you can afford. Fully synthetic is the way to go. Check out GSF as they often have offers on Carlube Triple R which ticks all the boxes and was used as the 'premium synthetic' by my Seat garage.
 

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Just to add. Don't buy 1 litre bottles, buy 5 litre container. Use it for top ups, and if needed, what's left could do a complete oil change.

It works out about 20% cheaper in the long run.


Edited by: Boysie
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Just crossed my mind. My car has only done 3.000 miles since new, will not need extra oil anyway since it goes back to Nissan garage for servicing at 18000 miles. But thanks for everyone's help
 
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