Joined
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4 Posts
Hello there, Jerry here.
This is the first time I post here and have some sharing about me fixing my own E12 DIGS oil sump leaking. As I am a guy having experience in fixing some machines (like boat outboards) and after a terrifying quotation from the service centre, I decide to work on my own.
All tools and products I used in this sharing were not sponsored by the manufacturer or any business, you can get them all from internet shopping or local tools shops.
First thing first, I can say that the fix holds up well as after this fix I have driven this car for over 5 months and have done over 5k mileage with no leaks.
When I got this Note E12 DIGs last year August I knew the engine is leaking oil but minor. Maybe only a few drops a day no performance loss, no other problem even no error codes show after I do an OBD scan, but it was leaking. It matters about the environment and didn't look good especially when parking in rainy weather, you can see those rainbow oil marks clearly it is the oil mark under my car. (Sorry for some drops to the environment!)
I took my car to a major branded "famous auto service centre" to do full service and checking, they told me to need an eye-watering 921 quid for fixing a minor leak! And they're just only "renew" the gasket! I got this car for around 4500 only!
![Circle Event Font Electric blue Pattern]()
After I go for tyre replacing with the car jack-up, I can confirm the leaking point from the lower engine sump so it comes up for me to do the fix myself.
![Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Vehicle Automotive exterior]()
You can be using paper towels to feel the oily under the oil sump.
Here is something I was planning at the moment:
After all tools and material is set, eye protection and gloves on, let's work on it.
![Wheel Tire Land vehicle Car Vehicle]()
Jack up the car, please refer to your workshop manual and find the jack-up point carefully, using all your jack-stand on hand to support the vehicle. You can always use extra support for the vehicle like the scissor jack to provide safer support in need.
Jack stand, car lift and the creeper etc from Halfords 5 Piece Lifting Kit also got it under 90 last year. I need to point out that the lift is not as good as big brands or a 3-tonne jack, it even didn't come with a rubber pad for supporting the jack point, so I can only find a wooden block for it. And it can only jack up to around 34cm height and not fit the jack stand maximum height at all, so you can only work on your own to solve the matters. I use a rubber pad 3cm thick works well.
Also, the jack stand top can cover some pieces of cut carpet to prevent metal to metal support for the vehicle.
Drain all the oil, as usual, I like this oil catch can as it not only catches oil, it can store it securely for disposal later. It just cost under 13£ as I got it at Euro Cars parts with a discount in that period.
![Font Parallel Rectangle Pattern Symmetry]()
Always refer to the workshop manual, your greatest helping hand when fixing. It shows EVERYTHING you need, including bolts counting.
After draining all the oil, I start to un-bolt all the bolts around the oil sump, it uses an 8mm socket x8 bolts with 10 nm of torque required (ONLY?). Please confirm every bolt you have unscrewed. Then hammer and flat head screwdriver time as the gasket is tough.
My way to find a point that can be using your flat head screwdriver goes in a bit, and then twist the flat head screwdriver a bit to create a bigger gap between the lower oil sump from the upper oil sump.
Again, the gasket is tough. I used a hammer and a bigger flat head screwdriver for help to open the gasket all the way around the oil sump.
![Tire Automotive tire Hood Wheel Automotive design]()
Beware the remaining oil in the sump. I mess up myself about this part as the photo shows.
![Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle]()
After the fight with those old gaskets and oil, you can take the whole lower oil sump out. Clean the sump with paper towels and inspect any damage to it. I mean it needs to be inspected carefully. I put it horizontally to see any bent to the edge of the oil sump, as most car oil sumps are made of thin steel plates. Too much bent to the whole oil sump may not provide good seals when you put it back into the engine. (Don't ask me why I know it. 🤦♂️)
In my case, some of the points I need to bend back a little to match the engine surface, I think those 8 bolts don't cover all the sump area.
![Automotive design Floor Wood Flooring Gas]()
Using a plastic scraper to remove those gasket remains on the oil sump, and the engine side also needs to scrap and clean too.
![Automotive tire Automotive lighting Helmet Motor vehicle Gas]()
The right side fast cure V-tech RTV really works. I squeeze a bit to have a test for how fast it can cure, around an hour sitting and it forms a rubber feels and does not melt. Threadlocker for those bolts tightening.
![Liquid Fluid Electric blue Kitchen utensil Drink]()
Applying the RTV on the oil sump. As the instruction said apply for at least 2-4mm thick for best seals. I like to put more maybe around 5-6mm thick.
![Brown Textile Bag Luggage and bags Metal]()
Ready 2 bolts on hand, once you stick the oil sump under the engine, you can hand tighten 2 bolts to prevent it drop from the engine and great for alignment.
Bolts back, and using a torch to inspect all the oil sump edge area, it should be having some RTV squeezes out a bit.
A tea break for an hour for curing and filling up the oil. Get a look for the leaking under the car, by using paper towels clean all of the areas that you work on for a better look for leaks.
Start the engine, all good normal with no leaks for idling for 10 minutes.
After a test drive for 20 minutes, I like to use another clean paper towel to try any oil leaks, and of course, it is leak-free until now! (Beware heat when you do this.)
It is so satisfying working my own car and fixing it! Not only save tons of the finest pounds and you gain confidence more in your own car!
Thank you for your watch. If you have any questions please leave a reply.
And, there is a next episode, about the water pump squeal noise for this Nissan Note e12 DIGs!
This is the first time I post here and have some sharing about me fixing my own E12 DIGS oil sump leaking. As I am a guy having experience in fixing some machines (like boat outboards) and after a terrifying quotation from the service centre, I decide to work on my own.
All tools and products I used in this sharing were not sponsored by the manufacturer or any business, you can get them all from internet shopping or local tools shops.
First thing first, I can say that the fix holds up well as after this fix I have driven this car for over 5 months and have done over 5k mileage with no leaks.
When I got this Note E12 DIGs last year August I knew the engine is leaking oil but minor. Maybe only a few drops a day no performance loss, no other problem even no error codes show after I do an OBD scan, but it was leaking. It matters about the environment and didn't look good especially when parking in rainy weather, you can see those rainbow oil marks clearly it is the oil mark under my car. (Sorry for some drops to the environment!)
I took my car to a major branded "famous auto service centre" to do full service and checking, they told me to need an eye-watering 921 quid for fixing a minor leak! And they're just only "renew" the gasket! I got this car for around 4500 only!
After I go for tyre replacing with the car jack-up, I can confirm the leaking point from the lower engine sump so it comes up for me to do the fix myself.
You can be using paper towels to feel the oily under the oil sump.
Here is something I was planning at the moment:
- Find the workshop manual
- Some tools and sealants like high temperature resist RTV
- Oil catching can and storage
- Jack lift and other safety essentials
- Light source is a must and much better for inspection for the works.
After all tools and material is set, eye protection and gloves on, let's work on it.
Jack up the car, please refer to your workshop manual and find the jack-up point carefully, using all your jack-stand on hand to support the vehicle. You can always use extra support for the vehicle like the scissor jack to provide safer support in need.
Jack stand, car lift and the creeper etc from Halfords 5 Piece Lifting Kit also got it under 90 last year. I need to point out that the lift is not as good as big brands or a 3-tonne jack, it even didn't come with a rubber pad for supporting the jack point, so I can only find a wooden block for it. And it can only jack up to around 34cm height and not fit the jack stand maximum height at all, so you can only work on your own to solve the matters. I use a rubber pad 3cm thick works well.
Also, the jack stand top can cover some pieces of cut carpet to prevent metal to metal support for the vehicle.
Drain all the oil, as usual, I like this oil catch can as it not only catches oil, it can store it securely for disposal later. It just cost under 13£ as I got it at Euro Cars parts with a discount in that period.
Always refer to the workshop manual, your greatest helping hand when fixing. It shows EVERYTHING you need, including bolts counting.
After draining all the oil, I start to un-bolt all the bolts around the oil sump, it uses an 8mm socket x8 bolts with 10 nm of torque required (ONLY?). Please confirm every bolt you have unscrewed. Then hammer and flat head screwdriver time as the gasket is tough.
My way to find a point that can be using your flat head screwdriver goes in a bit, and then twist the flat head screwdriver a bit to create a bigger gap between the lower oil sump from the upper oil sump.
Again, the gasket is tough. I used a hammer and a bigger flat head screwdriver for help to open the gasket all the way around the oil sump.
Beware the remaining oil in the sump. I mess up myself about this part as the photo shows.
After the fight with those old gaskets and oil, you can take the whole lower oil sump out. Clean the sump with paper towels and inspect any damage to it. I mean it needs to be inspected carefully. I put it horizontally to see any bent to the edge of the oil sump, as most car oil sumps are made of thin steel plates. Too much bent to the whole oil sump may not provide good seals when you put it back into the engine. (Don't ask me why I know it. 🤦♂️)
In my case, some of the points I need to bend back a little to match the engine surface, I think those 8 bolts don't cover all the sump area.
Using a plastic scraper to remove those gasket remains on the oil sump, and the engine side also needs to scrap and clean too.
The right side fast cure V-tech RTV really works. I squeeze a bit to have a test for how fast it can cure, around an hour sitting and it forms a rubber feels and does not melt. Threadlocker for those bolts tightening.
Applying the RTV on the oil sump. As the instruction said apply for at least 2-4mm thick for best seals. I like to put more maybe around 5-6mm thick.
Ready 2 bolts on hand, once you stick the oil sump under the engine, you can hand tighten 2 bolts to prevent it drop from the engine and great for alignment.
Bolts back, and using a torch to inspect all the oil sump edge area, it should be having some RTV squeezes out a bit.
A tea break for an hour for curing and filling up the oil. Get a look for the leaking under the car, by using paper towels clean all of the areas that you work on for a better look for leaks.
Start the engine, all good normal with no leaks for idling for 10 minutes.
After a test drive for 20 minutes, I like to use another clean paper towel to try any oil leaks, and of course, it is leak-free until now! (Beware heat when you do this.)
It is so satisfying working my own car and fixing it! Not only save tons of the finest pounds and you gain confidence more in your own car!
Thank you for your watch. If you have any questions please leave a reply.
And, there is a next episode, about the water pump squeal noise for this Nissan Note e12 DIGs!
