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Hello there, Jerry here.

This is the first time I post here and have some sharing about me fixing my own E12 DIGS oil sump leaking. As I am a guy having experience in fixing some machines (like boat outboards) and after a terrifying quotation from the service centre, I decide to work on my own.

All tools and products I used in this sharing were not sponsored by the manufacturer or any business, you can get them all from internet shopping or local tools shops.


First thing first, I can say that the fix holds up well as after this fix I have driven this car for over 5 months and have done over 5k mileage with no leaks.

When I got this Note E12 DIGs last year August I knew the engine is leaking oil but minor. Maybe only a few drops a day no performance loss, no other problem even no error codes show after I do an OBD scan, but it was leaking. It matters about the environment and didn't look good especially when parking in rainy weather, you can see those rainbow oil marks clearly it is the oil mark under my car. (Sorry for some drops to the environment!)

I took my car to a major branded "famous auto service centre" to do full service and checking, they told me to need an eye-watering 921 quid for fixing a minor leak! And they're just only "renew" the gasket! I got this car for around 4500 only!

Circle Event Font Electric blue Pattern




After I go for tyre replacing with the car jack-up, I can confirm the leaking point from the lower engine sump so it comes up for me to do the fix myself.

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Vehicle Automotive exterior


You can be using paper towels to feel the oily under the oil sump.

Here is something I was planning at the moment:

  • Find the workshop manual
  • Some tools and sealants like high temperature resist RTV
  • Oil catching can and storage
  • Jack lift and other safety essentials
  • Light source is a must and much better for inspection for the works.

After all tools and material is set, eye protection and gloves on, let's work on it.

Wheel Tire Land vehicle Car Vehicle


Jack up the car, please refer to your workshop manual and find the jack-up point carefully, using all your jack-stand on hand to support the vehicle. You can always use extra support for the vehicle like the scissor jack to provide safer support in need.

Jack stand, car lift and the creeper etc from Halfords 5 Piece Lifting Kit also got it under 90 last year. I need to point out that the lift is not as good as big brands or a 3-tonne jack, it even didn't come with a rubber pad for supporting the jack point, so I can only find a wooden block for it. And it can only jack up to around 34cm height and not fit the jack stand maximum height at all, so you can only work on your own to solve the matters. I use a rubber pad 3cm thick works well.

Also, the jack stand top can cover some pieces of cut carpet to prevent metal to metal support for the vehicle.

Drain all the oil, as usual, I like this oil catch can as it not only catches oil, it can store it securely for disposal later. It just cost under 13£ as I got it at Euro Cars parts with a discount in that period.

Font Parallel Rectangle Pattern Symmetry


Always refer to the workshop manual, your greatest helping hand when fixing. It shows EVERYTHING you need, including bolts counting.

After draining all the oil, I start to un-bolt all the bolts around the oil sump, it uses an 8mm socket x8 bolts with 10 nm of torque required (ONLY?). Please confirm every bolt you have unscrewed. Then hammer and flat head screwdriver time as the gasket is tough.

My way to find a point that can be using your flat head screwdriver goes in a bit, and then twist the flat head screwdriver a bit to create a bigger gap between the lower oil sump from the upper oil sump.

Again, the gasket is tough. I used a hammer and a bigger flat head screwdriver for help to open the gasket all the way around the oil sump.

Tire Automotive tire Hood Wheel Automotive design


Beware the remaining oil in the sump. I mess up myself about this part as the photo shows.

Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle


After the fight with those old gaskets and oil, you can take the whole lower oil sump out. Clean the sump with paper towels and inspect any damage to it. I mean it needs to be inspected carefully. I put it horizontally to see any bent to the edge of the oil sump, as most car oil sumps are made of thin steel plates. Too much bent to the whole oil sump may not provide good seals when you put it back into the engine. (Don't ask me why I know it. 🤦‍♂️)

In my case, some of the points I need to bend back a little to match the engine surface, I think those 8 bolts don't cover all the sump area.

Automotive design Floor Wood Flooring Gas


Using a plastic scraper to remove those gasket remains on the oil sump, and the engine side also needs to scrap and clean too.

Automotive tire Automotive lighting Helmet Motor vehicle Gas


The right side fast cure V-tech RTV really works. I squeeze a bit to have a test for how fast it can cure, around an hour sitting and it forms a rubber feels and does not melt. Threadlocker for those bolts tightening.

Liquid Fluid Electric blue Kitchen utensil Drink


Applying the RTV on the oil sump. As the instruction said apply for at least 2-4mm thick for best seals. I like to put more maybe around 5-6mm thick.

Brown Textile Bag Luggage and bags Metal



Ready 2 bolts on hand, once you stick the oil sump under the engine, you can hand tighten 2 bolts to prevent it drop from the engine and great for alignment.

Bolts back, and using a torch to inspect all the oil sump edge area, it should be having some RTV squeezes out a bit.

A tea break for an hour for curing and filling up the oil. Get a look for the leaking under the car, by using paper towels clean all of the areas that you work on for a better look for leaks.

Start the engine, all good normal with no leaks for idling for 10 minutes.

After a test drive for 20 minutes, I like to use another clean paper towel to try any oil leaks, and of course, it is leak-free until now! (Beware heat when you do this.)

It is so satisfying working my own car and fixing it! Not only save tons of the finest pounds and you gain confidence more in your own car!


Thank you for your watch. If you have any questions please leave a reply.

And, there is a next episode, about the water pump squeal noise for this Nissan Note e12 DIGs!
 

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Hello there, Jerry here.

This is the first time I post here and have some sharing about me fixing my own E12 DIGS oil sump leaking. As I am a guy having experience in fixing some machines (like boat outboards) and after a terrifying quotation from the service centre, I decide to work on my own.

All tools and products I used in this sharing were not sponsored by the manufacturer or any business, you can get them all from internet shopping or local tools shops.


First thing first, I can say that the fix holds up well as after this fix I have driven this car for over 5 months and have done over 5k mileage with no leaks.

When I got this Note E12 DIGs last year August I knew the engine is leaking oil but minor. Maybe only a few drops a day no performance loss, no other problem even no error codes show after I do an OBD scan, but it was leaking. It matters about the environment and didn't look good especially when parking in rainy weather, you can see those rainbow oil marks clearly it is the oil mark under my car. (Sorry for some drops to the environment!)

I took my car to a major branded "famous auto service centre" to do full service and checking, they told me to need an eye-watering 921 quid for fixing a minor leak! And they're just only "renew" the gasket! I got this car for around 4500 only!

View attachment 1705



After I go for tyre replacing with the car jack-up, I can confirm the leaking point from the lower engine sump so it comes up for me to do the fix myself.

View attachment 1706

You can be using paper towels to feel the oily under the oil sump.

Here is something I was planning at the moment:

  • Find the workshop manual
  • Some tools and sealants like high temperature resist RTV
  • Oil catching can and storage
  • Jack lift and other safety essentials
  • Light source is a must and much better for inspection for the works.

After all tools and material is set, eye protection and gloves on, let's work on it.

View attachment 1708

Jack up the car, please refer to your workshop manual and find the jack-up point carefully, using all your jack-stand on hand to support the vehicle. You can always use extra support for the vehicle like the scissor jack to provide safer support in need.

Jack stand, car lift and the creeper etc from Halfords 5 Piece Lifting Kit also got it under 90 last year. I need to point out that the lift is not as good as big brands or a 3-tonne jack, it even didn't come with a rubber pad for supporting the jack point, so I can only find a wooden block for it. And it can only jack up to around 34cm height and not fit the jack stand maximum height at all, so you can only work on your own to solve the matters. I use a rubber pad 3cm thick works well.

Also, the jack stand top can cover some pieces of cut carpet to prevent metal to metal support for the vehicle.

Drain all the oil, as usual, I like this oil catch can as it not only catches oil, it can store it securely for disposal later. It just cost under 13£ as I got it at Euro Cars parts with a discount in that period.

View attachment 1712

Always refer to the workshop manual, your greatest helping hand when fixing. It shows EVERYTHING you need, including bolts counting.

After draining all the oil, I start to un-bolt all the bolts around the oil sump, it uses an 8mm socket x8 bolts with 10 nm of torque required (ONLY?). Please confirm every bolt you have unscrewed. Then hammer and flat head screwdriver time as the gasket is tough.

My way to find a point that can be using your flat head screwdriver goes in a bit, and then twist the flat head screwdriver a bit to create a bigger gap between the lower oil sump from the upper oil sump.

Again, the gasket is tough. I used a hammer and a bigger flat head screwdriver for help to open the gasket all the way around the oil sump.

View attachment 1709

Beware the remaining oil in the sump. I mess up myself about this part as the photo shows.

View attachment 1710

After the fight with those old gaskets and oil, you can take the whole lower oil sump out. Clean the sump with paper towels and inspect any damage to it. I mean it needs to be inspected carefully. I put it horizontally to see any bent to the edge of the oil sump, as most car oil sumps are made of thin steel plates. Too much bent to the whole oil sump may not provide good seals when you put it back into the engine. (Don't ask me why I know it. 🤦‍♂️)

In my case, some of the points I need to bend back a little to match the engine surface, I think those 8 bolts don't cover all the sump area.

View attachment 1711

Using a plastic scraper to remove those gasket remains on the oil sump, and the engine side also needs to scrap and clean too.

View attachment 1713

The right side fast cure V-tech RTV really works. I squeeze a bit to have a test for how fast it can cure, around an hour sitting and it forms a rubber feels and does not melt. Threadlocker for those bolts tightening.

View attachment 1714

Applying the RTV on the oil sump. As the instruction said apply for at least 2-4mm thick for best seals. I like to put more maybe around 5-6mm thick.

View attachment 1715


Ready 2 bolts on hand, once you stick the oil sump under the engine, you can hand tighten 2 bolts to prevent it drop from the engine and great for alignment.

Bolts back, and using a torch to inspect all the oil sump edge area, it should be having some RTV squeezes out a bit.

A tea break for an hour for curing and filling up the oil. Get a look for the leaking under the car, by using paper towels clean all of the areas that you work on for a better look for leaks.

Start the engine, all good normal with no leaks for idling for 10 minutes.

After a test drive for 20 minutes, I like to use another clean paper towel to try any oil leaks, and of course, it is leak-free until now! (Beware heat when you do this.)

It is so satisfying working my own car and fixing it! Not only save tons of the finest pounds and you gain confidence more in your own car!


Thank you for your watch. If you have any questions please leave a reply.

And, there is a next episode, about the water pump squeal noise for this Nissan Note e12 DIGs!
Well done Jerry. It's a nice little sump to work with. I'm surprised that the sump didn't need a gasket..
Also whilst I can see you've put the axle stands in the correct points, I'm wondering where you've placed the hydraulic jack (it's a bit dark on my screen) I'll look forward to your water pump post. BTW how many miles has your Note done? :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well done Jerry. It's a nice little sump to work with. I'm surprised that the sump didn't need a gasket..
Also whilst I can see you've put the axle stands in the correct points, I'm wondering where you've placed the hydraulic jack (it's a bit dark on my screen) I'll look forward to your water pump post. BTW how many miles has your Note done? :)
The hydraulic jack point is the wrong one at the centre of the subframe but I do that for extra safety lift point in case the jack stand fails. The vehicle is still supported by 2 jack standpoint as the manual told:

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Tea and coffee are good for me ;) But I am studying what beans are best for my 3 in 1 auto coffee machine tho :LOL:
 

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Applying the RTV on the oil sump. As the instruction said apply for at least 2-4mm thick for best seals. I like to put more maybe around 5-6mm thick.
Not good idea.

Any excess inside could come away and block the oil pick up with fatal consequences.

From your photo it looks like the sealant is closer to the inside in places and you have no idea what it's like inside.

Keep your fingers crossed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Not good idea.

Any excess inside could come away and block the oil pick up with fatal consequences.

From your photo it looks like the sealant is closer to the inside in places and you have no idea what it's like inside.

Keep your fingers crossed.
Good point. That's why I do the experiment for the RTV first, and second, this fix has been done over several months for my own risk verification, both for the usage of the RTV and the time is the best examiner for every repair.

The RTV takes about 15 minutes to start to form a "half melt" seal feeling, then an hour later just like the oil ring's seal. Very solid and pretty hard to tear off that gave me the confidence for me to apply it.

Of course, you need to have a very good clean surface for it.
 
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