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code instructions are in the thick connect user manual
edit. that came out wrong I meant the connect manual this thick - not the connect user, but I do wonder sometimes


Edited by: flash22
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Contacted dealer to see what they will do about the lack of a code, not holding out hope of anything free though-- expect money will have to change hands , absolutely did not get a credit card sized card when I picked up the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
So that's the radio issue sorted...........................I have
checked with the workshop and they have indicated that if your car has a wide
screen unit, which takes an SD card, the unit doe s not have a code. According
to the details of your car you have this unit fitted. Please do not hesitate to
contact me directly should you need further clarification.


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<td width="420" style="padding: 0cm; border: rgb0, 0, 0; width: 315.05pt; height: 65.25pt; : transparent;">Buddy
Mitchell

RENAULT
RETAIL GROUP UK LTD.

Nissan
Service Manager

Tel: +44 (0)208 276 2000 (Short Dial:)
www.renaultretail.co.uk
:: www.nissanretail.co.uk
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63 plate is the very last of the e11 if you had stated that it was a new note I would of told you that the connect 2 is coded to the car
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I was not making a point it was "F everyone's I" and as I believed the tekna was introduced in 2013 to surpass the ntec that's why I asked the previous question .. E12 would have nailed it though.
Whatever I discover I'll post for the collective good .
 

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Nissan do as the please with model names and car spec's esp if you get new old stock, cars
some sve models and the later Ntec+ models are listed as Tekna on the v5 and other paper work as you can see this is a grey area
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Car goes in for yearly service on July 1st .Dealer knows of issues and they can sort it then. I suspect oil change will stop all this .I'll Let everyone know what they find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
For the collective good heres the answer to this one .

The dealer was very good on this and from what I've read and the questions I asked I 've pieced together the situation . I've seen the diagnostic from the vehicle and there were no other codes .

DTC P253F( engine oil deteriorated ) Is caused by failure to regen the DPF properly, the exact details are complicated but I've read loads and theres a good you tube vid by an American oil company showing how regen on vehicles actually works and why this can screw up your oil .

There is a sensor in the1.5 DCI which detects the viscosity of the oil ,when it falls below a critical value it creates the P253F code and the EMU disables certain functions that could cause engine wear namely cruise control which you could stick it at 100 mph on 'Das Autobahn' for hours if you wanted .

As engine oil gets hotter the oilgets thinner (its kinematic density falls) ..So when I start off its fine,the MIL is lit but the sensor is reporting all things fine , then as it heats up the sensor detects its too fluid and bingo off goes the cruise control .
Cold night takes longer , hot day quicker .Hence the strange behaviour. It fits with what the dealer has told and what I've read.

In essence the MIL is acting as a 'SERVICE' light , but the emu is protecting the car.

So The solution is simple and we all know the answer ...... Change the oil and get the engine to operating temperature continuously for 30mins (longer the better) a month at 55-65 mph to regen the DPF (Got to find a reason now to do 30 minute motorway journey....Hmmm there goes the fuel saving
)

Had the car serviced and fault code removed andno symptoms have recurred and god have I tried.

I KNOW it isn't coming back soon until the oil goes again

Having said that my old escort MKIII got an oil change
every 5000 miles and it lasted for 125,000 before I sold it and gave me no problems, maybe expectations of a 10,000 mile 'yearly service ' are un realistic .This has made 10 months .

Some times I can see the sense in a Citroen 2CV..........

Hope this helps someone esp if they are out of warranty before they go and pay top dollar for diagnostics.


Regards Pete






Edited by: PCD
 

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flash22 said:
the code relates toa break down of the oil due to the diesel this can be caused by the DPFnot doing a full cycle
oil change -drain any water off the diesel filter - do a 70-80 mile trip get it nice and hot, so the DPF does a full cycle

let the dealer sort it get them to do a DPF regen
to quote myself from mid june - then again I Know Nothing
 

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I do not know what makes the DPF work, but, what starts the DPF doing afull cycle, and what's stopping the DPF doing a full cycle.
Touch wood, I've never had a spot of bother with my DPF

If you look back to the 16th June on this post, I copied from the hand book (page 5-5), what speed you have to do to clean out the DPF, without thrashing it down the motorway.

So is it a fault of the electrical system that's stopping the DPF doing a full cycle and do Nissan know about this problem
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Flash 22 I didas you suggested but the dealership took a two weeks to fit me in. Then I reported what they found as I said I would .Silverhairs I think the figure quoted in the manual is wrong I regularly do40 minutes continuous 60mph driving so this should not have been a problem .
What I think happened is that when it went in last year with 4,000 on the clock they didn't bother to change the oil .So after 15K itsknackered ... that's just speculation.

Topic Now Closed
 

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Exact same thing has started happening to me this last 2 weeks. I had cruise control problem in January, it completely stopped working along with the gear change suggestion indicator, but Nissan sorted it and never said how they had done it, and it was fine after that, until two weeks ago that is. This time around, it would sometimes set and sometimes not, and then a week ago the orange mil light came on while I was driving with cruise control set and the cruise control cut out immediately. It has never cut out on me as I've been driving, this is a first time. Straight away thought it was something to do with the DPF and the oil. Remember some of the posts I had seen on here. I have been doing a lot of short journeys in it lately to be fair. I bought a scanner and got the 'oil deteriorated' code. Booked in with a local trusted garage for Thursday coming, they will use Nissan specified oil filter and oil, and hopefully that sorts it. It only had the oil changed 4 months ago and I've only done 2000 miles since. But still, I hope that this oil change sorts it out, because I don't want to be forking out for a regen or worse a new dpf. It's the last diesel I buy. I'm going to go back to petrol for my next car, a small turbo petrol. Probably a Volkswagen Polo 1.0 petrol 110bhp, or a Golf 1.4 petrol 125bhp. Still not got my air con sorted either, they've attempted to fix it twice, first time a regas, which it didn't need I don't think. The problem is with the climate control air mixture. At 16 degrees warm air comes out. Notch it up to 17 and it's hot. Beyond that it makes no difference between 18 and 30 degrees. Air conditioning is cold until the car warms up. Feeling the air con pipe near the gas refilling valve is freezing cold so the air con part is working fine, it's just that cheap and naff climate control. I reckon the plastic vents behind the dashboard that change the air mixture have probably jammed or warped. The second time they fixed it, it was fine for a week, nice and cold, until I changed the temperature, and back to only getting warm air out of it. These cars are definitely built to a price haha.
 

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The quality of the plastic used in the vent piping is so poor it makes the liners in a Milk Tray box look like battleship steel. One or more may have become detached or simply collapsed.

The problem is that main stealers go 'by the book' and a half-decent air-con specialist would have it sorted pretty damned quickly.

Have to agree that a Diesel with a DPF is a 'disaster waiting to happen' financially if you only do short runs.
 

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what year e12 ? stop/start per chance ? what's the mil code ? oil dilution ?If thedpf does not cycle correctly it dumps raw diesel into the oil - oil/filter changeand a forced regen what any decent independent can do
<div abp="872">
<div abp="873">air con the pipe work shouldn't be ice cold -is that around the valve ? It could just be a leaking valve - it could also be a electrical fault - again do you have stop/start ?
 

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Looking back through this post when a member said that the temperature only got to 77 degrees, I know it was some time back, but a faulty thermostat never came up, if your thermostat is stuck open, your engine will never get up to temperature so the DPF will never work correctly.Better late than never
.
As for the handbook being wrong? but I think they left out a small point, they don't say what gear you need to use, cause even at 40 MPH the engine is not much over tick over in 5th gear. Keep it in 3rd and keep the revs over 2000 RPM, allow it to get really warm. As I said, "if the thermostat's stuck open, don't matter what gear your in, it's not going to get hot enough for the DPF to work properly.
 

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It's a 14 reg, registered in May 2014, Tekna Diesel and yeah it has got stop start. The day after the mil light came on the stop start system flashed for about 20 minutes but it's not done it since. I will most probably be getting rid of it when the warranty runs out next year. I feel it will become a right expensive ticking time bomb. I agree with one of the comments about the vent piping could have collapsed cos I did notice the air isn't very strong coming through the passenger left vent.
 

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Just to update, had my oil changed and genuine Nissan filter done at my local trusted garage and have drove 200 miles in it today and it's still the same, so it looks like it's a call to Nissan tomorrow to probably be ripped off over a DPF regen or God forbid replacement. My gut feeling says its a DPF filter issue. It's tying in with what other have said who had DPF issues with the diesel E12 note.
 

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I Have a 2014 Note Acenta Premium 1.5 dci and this has happened to me twice now. Always just coming up to service time. It appears the computer dectects the oil degradation and the first thing it does is shut down the cruise control and the gear change indicator light. This time round the money light came on with a P0253 code. From what I can gather, the easiest fix is change the oil and filter and reset the service light. Mind you, once my servicing deal with the dealer is finished, Ill be changing the oil every 9-10,000 miles anyway.
 

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I have a 2013 Diesel - 1.5 - Note. Acenta Premium and experienced similar symptoms to what is described here. I just went to Asda and got some DPF cleaner fluid, put it in with half a tank of fuel, then filled up. I drove about 10 miles (some at 60 mph) and my cruise control started working. Fault light was still illuminated of the dash though... Stopped, went for a walk, started car again - dash light still on. Stopped again, then when we went home, the fault light went out! Great! So give that a try as it won't do any harm!



 
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