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Hi al
Have finally got feed up with quick solder solution for tailgate grommet cables breaking. Now going to remove each cable desperately and replace from the rear pillar to the backdoor harness. My cables seem to be a mix of thin and slightly thicker cables of a creamy colour like some other people in the forums have. The electric diagrams show that the rear defogger has a 20amp fuse, whereas, the rest have 10 amps fuse. So I am assuming the thin cables are for 10 amps and the thicker for 20 amps.

I am I correct in saying that I would be best using cable with rating higher than these fuse rating to be on the safe side. e.g. 22amps and 12 amps. I know I need flex type multi stranded. Can anyone direct me with appropriate cable technical details to ensure a suitable match.

Help would be much appreciated.
 

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So if your using a 10 amp fuse, would an 11 amp wire be OK and what do you advise for the 20 amp fuse?This was one of the questions.
I'm thinking about rewiring the boot lid before any wires break. There are two flexible pipes between the body and the boot lid, which one carries the problem wires?
 

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silverhairs said:
So if your using a 10 amp fuse, would an 11 amp wire be OK and what do you advise for the 20 amp fuse?This was one of the questions.
I'm thinking about rewiring the boot lid before any wires break. There are two flexible pipes between the body and the boot lid, which one carries the problem wires?
Offside, use the thickest multi-strand wire that the joint will bear. The thicker the wire the lower the resistance hence voltage drop and the more chance of it being resilient to one or two strands 'giving up'.
 

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hi ….i have just bought a note with the rear wiper problem…someone had already put wire bridges in to repair broken ones between the grommets to the back door. however, it seems there is power to the plug (motor end) on two of the three prongs - the two side by side, so i bought a reclaimed motor but still no joy when fitted…any suggestions please? is it possible that neither motor works?
 

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many thanks…just getting used to this…tried the replacement motor with battery and it works, so trying to figure out exactly where the break is (presumably near one of the previous repair jobs)…seem to have power to just one terminal in the plug, wiper motor end….
 

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Take the slow methodical approach in tracing the broken wire and you will find it. It just takes a little time and patience.
Good luck with the repair.
 

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This post and many others like it have been going on for quite a few years now, If you read them all, joining the wires in the flexible tube has been frowned upon whether soldering or some have used electrical blocks.
The best way is to trace back the wires inside the car, but you have to pull down a small part of the headlining, you can join the wires there, then using the old wire, pull a new wire through, you might bust a couple of clips, but their not expensive to purchase new ones, if your careful, you wont brake any clips, just take your time.
 

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many thanks…it’s a pity the cables are not colour-coded isn’t it?….what’s the headlining?
 

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Got the same problem with mine. Out of curiosity I phoned Nissan to see if they did a replacement section for that part of the loom. They do @ £309 + vat! He did say they don't sell many! Off to the local auto electrician this afternoon to have the wires replaced at a fraction of Nissan's price.
 

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Got the same problem with mine. Out of curiosity I phoned Nissan to see if they did a replacement section for that part of the loom. They do @ £309 + vat! He did say they don't sell many! Off to the local auto electrician this afternoon to have the wires replaced at a fraction of Nissan's price.
My tech used multi stranded copper wire, not the solid aluminium crap. Used a secton of a trailer cable from a tow bar kit, that was kicking around.:wink::smile:
 
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