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Colin

Even the smallest 5amp version will be more than adequate if you want to go down this route rather than doing a 'pucker' soldering and re-sealing job.
 

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If you use the connection blocks, this could trap the other wires and start breaking the other white wires in the rubber trunking when opening and closing the boot lid, quick fix though.
 

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I have no idea how many wires there are that go through to the tailgate, but I wonder if a multi core flex, similar or the same as the type used for a tow hitch, which could be used for all the wires at the same time, when fixing one.

Would that stand up to the opening and closing of the tail gate.
 

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its down to core count and wire quality - repairing it in the rubber boot wouldn't be ideal for me I would rather pull the loom through andreplace the cable/wire as the existing wirewill be fatigued
 

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Some helpful advice in here, I'm so glad I eventually found the thread - with a helpful pointer in this direction. I don't know if anybody else has found this but the site doesn't load well on Chrome on iPad and the search results weren't as expected.

Anyway, I started my investigations before finding this thread, and I went straight to the connector on the lock itself as I knew I had water ingress somewhere in the boot - I suspect it was leaking from the windscreen washer hose. What I found was some badly corroded connectors, one or two of which disintegrated as soon as I tried to disconnect them.

I fitted new square connectors (more commonly used on motorbikes than cars) and plugged it back in but with no change to the status of the locking mechanism. I reversed the order of the 4 wires but it still didn't work. I tried connecting them direct to the spades i.e. not using the plastic block, and got one single clunk, then nothing.

After reading this thread I think what has happened is that as well as the corroded connectors, one or more wires may have been severed in the rubber boot (as with everybody else) and the jiggling made a temporary connection as I fiddled with the wires.

I'll check this theory out once it stops raining - so maybe Tuesday or Wednesday - and report back.
 

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Gah! No sign of broken wires and no amount of twisting them coaxed it into life - or caused other failures. On the plus side, the wiper motor and number plate lights still work.

Does anybody know which fuse this lock is connected to? I'd assumed Passive Entry but there isn't a fuse in that slot. The doors are all still working so I don't think it's that problem, but who knows on a car that is built with single colour wiring looms - clarity wasn't high on their priority list.


Looks like I'll have to get the solenoid and wires tested for power. Holiday around here so not happening today. Time to cellotape the tailgate closed again.
 

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on page 2 of this thread is a picture of the plugs which plug did you change ? you can do a continuity check on the loom from the plugs in the drivers footwell<div abp="872">
<div abp="873">once I know this I can find the pin outs
<div abp="874">
<div abp="875">You can manipulate the linkage so at least it shuts
 

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Another boot not opening central locking would click open as would boot switch, could not get boot to release, strangely the doors would not lock and a door open symbol on dash. Worked for a while then tried a good heave on boot which opened a little bit pulled again and boot opened.
Problem, by chance my wife when closing the boot when shopping had managed to get a cloth handle from a shopping bag closed right in the latch?
 

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hi all, new on here and having the same problem boot wont open, I managed to open it manually by taking the panel off ect.... What I need to know is how many wires should be live of the four going to the lock motor? using a simple 12 volt test light I can only seem to get power coming through one wire...is this right? I tested the motor itself out on a bench using a battery and it seems to be working.Thankfull for any help.
 

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Hi Thanks for the advice . I found the photos really helpful. I levered the inner panel off with a wallpaper scraper, knowing where the fixers are located meant I just bashed at it.
I also just bashed the locking tab on the white cover so could open the tailgate.
On my car there were two fractured leads in the flexy connector. There are actually three wire types in the bundle. 1) Very Thin White, 2) Thin White and 3) Thin White with silver tracers. I think 3) was the critical failure.
Incidentally it took me nearly as long to get on the forum as it did to fix the lock.
Thanks againAndrew.
 

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Hi everyone. I have an 07 Nissan note. I recently had an MOT and failed (for a number of things) one of which was no rear reg lights....I opened the boot to help make it easier to take out the 'broken' bulbs, drove to Halfords to buy the replacements and when I went to open the boot (to help make it easier put the new bulbs in) the boot wouldn't open... I thought huh that's weird. Maybe I blew a fuse or something in removing the old bulbs...? All seemed odd.I quickly googled the problem and landed in this forum. I followed the thread carefully and was able to totally fix the problem by discovering broken wires behind the rubber loom (after manually opening the boot from the inside).I decided to join this site/thread to say thanks to everyone for your help and also to add a little bit of advice. When you are hunched up inside the car trying to open the boot from the inside - you need to remove the white casing over the boot opening mechanism. This proved difficult for me with my big fat 'man' arms. After much time trying to pinch the little catch thing I went to my tool box and found a paint tin opener.
I positioned this against the raised three lines on the white casing and levered backwards. This then easily allowed the casing to pop off.I thought other people might want to know as it might save a few headaches as that was by far the most tedious part of the whole process.J
 

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Does this boot also contain the wires that control the rear windscreen wiper? That went months ago for me and the boot has failed recently. Will be taking a look at this tonight when I am home.
 

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It has all of the wires to everything on the tailgate, lock, lights and wiper.

Its failure is down to the extremely poor quality wiring used - you really could not get anything cheaper and nastier.
 

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Okay. Home now and pulled back the boot. 3 wires broken. Reconnect temporarily and all working again!!!
To complete a more permanent repair. How do I remove the boot completely?
 

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take out the rear 1/4 trim and the cover off the tailgate and pull 1 wire at a time - A long a tedious job
 

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My rear wiper isn't working, when I look at the wires in the rubber tubing 1 wire is exposed but not broken, is this enough to stop the wiper working even though the wire is not broken?
I intend of solder repairing the wire this week, but does anyone know which fuse is for the rear wiper blade so I can check it?
 

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iirc its in the internal fusebox by the drivers knee<div abp="1681">
<div abp="1682">If ones worn through the likelihood is that others have broke (they may look visually fine but the copper cores have broken) a tug test will show what ones - tug test - give it a hard tug if it snaps its a bad-in*
<div abp="1682">
<div abp="1682">* You do this at your own risk, note the disclaimer in the forum rules
 
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