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Hi same here, just discover this today, boot just not open
, I checks fuses in side the car and cant see any relate to boot doors.
find that information on-line :

"We had the same problem with our NIssan Note- - some times its the mircoswitch that unlocks the boot, - sometimes its a break in the wiring- for us, it was the wiring- Where the loom leaves the car body to go into the tailgate, the wires get bent to and fro alot, and fatigue -> break. SO:
Climb inside the car, remove the plastic panel from the inside of the boot , then reach inside the boot for the tailgate latch. Ours had a plastic cover over which took some wriggling to get off, then we released the lock manually.one the boot was open 1 we checked for power supply to the switch and motor: there was none.
2 we looked at the wiring supply to the boot (top right hand side). We snipped the rubber boot,opened it up, we found three wires broken, supplying the micro switch for the lock, and the number plate lights...
3 we soldered them and hey presto, it worked fine again- we had to work out which supplied which , which was fun!"
 

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Yes, I agree about the wiring loom. My 06 SVE had the same problem. Boot wouldn't open and the wires inside the rubber cover had chafed through use. Unfortunately all the wires were white so it took the village garage a while to locate the problem and then try and fix it. It's a common fault I discovered later.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi Guys,


Does anybody know how to remove the the plastic panel from the inside of the boot?

Or is there a diagram to do this action?



Many thanks,



Paul
 

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its held by 7 clips 4 main accross the bottom you will either need a trim tool or a flat blade screwdriver and a cloth
some times the clips snap and other times thay stay in the door 9/10 time thay come out fine
 

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Having similar problem compounded by managing to break latch getting boot open!Got spare latch but haven't found any faults in wiring where it enters hatch from car and new latch not working

Is there a wiring diagram availble to see how latch and micro switch wired up and what is at 12v, earthed etc so can try and trace fault. 4 wires to latch what should each one be and which is live feed as all seem dead. Not helped by all wires seem to be white! Is it fused some where or do I have to check every single fuse as labling very general with comments like "electronics"!
Peter
 

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Hi

Sounds like the wires that become between the body and the tail gate. They are encased in a rubber boot that allows the boot to open and the wires are still encased. Unplug the rubber boot (basically a long grommet) and inspect the white wires within. You'll find one at least has gone floppy where it is broken. I had three broken in mine and the Nissan dealer I bought it from had already "repaired it" once before. I did it myself with some flexible wire from Maplins and has been good since. There isn't aseparatefuse but there should be a 12V supply, as you're not getting that either the fuse that controls multiple items is blown but I would bet a broken wire. As said before a common problem which to Nissan doesn't exist.

Happy hunting, cheers
John
 

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Discussion Starter #9
There seems to be two panels for the boot.



One panel on the boot itself and one at the base of the boot.


Which panel do you take off?



I have taken the one off the base off the boot ( and broken it but now fixed ) where the lock is and three screws. If you start to undo these screws more the boot start to move, but I dont want to updo them all as I can see that the boot will open and break all the wires from the latch/lock.



Paul
 

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pcpearce said:
There seems to be two panels for the boot.



One panel on the boot itself and one at the base of the boot.


Which panel do you take off?



I have taken the one off the base off the boot ( and broken it but now fixed ) where the lock is and three screws. If you start to undo these screws more the boot start to move, but I dont want to updo them all as I can see that the boot will open and break all the wires from the latch/lock.



Paul
Dont undo these three bolts. To open boot you have to work from inside with seats down and parcel shelf removed.
Take off the black panel. Use a large flat screw driver to help pop off each white push fitting.
Then you need to reach inside back off hatch where you will see back of latch with a white plastic cover.
Its difficult but you need to get off cover leaving another white casing.
Feel behind casing and you will find a knobjust projecting out. This can be pushed on an arc and latch shouldpop open
When you have hatch open look to the top right corner and you will see a flexi rubber tube. Gently pull from both hatch and main body The rubber has a tag taped into the loom that you can pull out or cut.
Then fold back the rubber and if like my problem you will find broken wires. I had two broken white wires. By compare breaks joined the right ones by cutting both sides back and soldering in short sections of wires. Tested before soldering and latch worked.
Problem now is rear wiper not working. Wife cant remember if working after latch stop working so something I've done but cant see any broken wires. Also seem to have 12v at plug that goes into wiper motor. Gave up today will look again tomorrow
 

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I am so glad I found this thread!!
I have 10 plate Note just a few months out of warranty and experienced the same issue recently. All of a sudden the rear tailgate would simply not open. There was no sound of the remote lock working and the tailgate switch was completely dead. Fearing a massive bill from the dealer I searched around and found this thread.
Managed to open the gate from the inside and then removed the rubber jacket and checked the wiring loom on the top RH side of the opening.
Hey presto found one single wire that had snapped. Reconnected this and jobs a good'un!
I can't believe that the wires are such poor quality. Have never experienced this on any other car. I guess its the Renault influence of low grade electrics which plague so may french cars.
Thanks to all who have contributed to this post.
 

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Welcome to the forum, glad you sorted it.


Sadly, it's the same on VWs/Seats where the loom passes from the body into the tailgate.



Had the experience once of 'unlatching' the boot while washing the rear window due to an internal short. Thankfully the interlock prevented the tailgate opening at 70 on the M4!!
 

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It seems a common fault on modern cars tbh I think its down to modern cable specs - lower core count and smaller core size combined with thin wall insulation cabling and looms 9/10 come in from a 3rd party usually made by the lowest bidder
if you look at the door wiring the wire is all white so it makes fault finding a mare at times
 

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All - Sorted mine out with the info given.
One thing about taking the white casing off the lock... If you look to the bottom right of the white casing there's a little plastic "catch". Get your right hand in and gently push the "catch" with your thumb and it'll slide up without any effort.

Took me longer to find an extra bit of cable, insulation tape and solder it...

One happy bunny now
 

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Thanks to everyone for this thread - managed to get mine opened up without much effort with the tips here.

On my one the cables all seem fine, and the lock has magically started working again - the worst kind of fault - an intermittent one!!!
During investigations, I did see that someone had previously repaired the cable at the point where it goes through the rubber tubing from the main body of the car to the boot.

There are 2 things I am thinking now:

1. If I press the lock button, I can hear the mechanism even when the boot is open. If I slowly open the boot and keep pressing the button, it works till the boot is about 30 degrees open from the closed position. After that it stops working. That seems really odd, as the electronics would need to be quite sophisticated for it to stop working by itself at a certain angle!! Can anyone confirm??

2. If the above is NOT correct, and it should work even when say 90 degrees open, then I would suspect water ingress from the high level brake light messing with the switch. The numberplate lights seem to work at the higher angle, so at least power seems to be getting there. Is this a reasonable assumption?

Pics below. 1st is showing some water on the latch bit - hence my suspecting some water ingress. The car was not on a flat surface, so could have trickled in when opening the boot.



This one is what you see when you get the boot cover off. Green I think is the high level brake light or de-mister (not sure), yellow is for the boot latch and numberplate lights, Red and Pink come from the one bundle, but Red appears to be rear wiper and Pink am not sure (mods feel free to correct if known)




Thanks!
 

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Most likely you have a break in one of the wires. I would look at the repaired section first. It may be the repair wasn't very good, or you may find that it has been soldered which stops the wire flexing and it snaps near the joint.

It is possible for the wire to break internally with no sign on the insulation.

Try wiggling/pulling/bending the wires with the boot up and see if the lock keeps working.
 

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Very useful info. Thanks.
Managed to get the black panel off (very tight pop fittings, five at the bottom-two at the corners and three spaced evenly across the bottom and three on the top, more centrally placed) using two flat screwdrivers. I thought I was about to brake the panel, but fortunately it popped open.
The black panel is placed right below the rear window as looking from inside, and is tightly secured on the door, so needs some courage to stick the screwdrivers between the chassis and the panel to get it loose.
Also managed to take the white cover off the hatch and tomorrow morning I'll try to open the boot.
 

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A small word of advice, at least if you're in London, whatever you do, don't take it to Nissan!

Had the missus's done and ended up costing £85 for the fault investigation (I'd already had the rear panel off, and left it off, and even identified it was the wiring loom, plus told them the most likely area as that had been patched previously by the previous owner). They still charged another £99 for the repair.


My spark would've charged me nearly the same for a days work!
 

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As I found the information here very useful I have added some photos to help future sufferers.


Inside of trim panel showing clips. I started at the top gap between this panel and the grey panel above using a screwdriver to lever it off.



Cover of switch. Difficult to get of but it looks like it is held on by a catch in the rectangular opening.



The boot catch unit. The release button is bottom left. Push to right to release.



Pull the boot away from the body to reveal the break.
This cable is way too stiff to flex as the tailgate opens. Design flaw? Not fit for purpose!

Colin
 
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