[flash22]

This is for the 1.6 HR16DE

Note. nut A needs to be torqued to 26 ft lb

 

[flash22]

This is for the 1.4 air con and non air con

 

[mnl]

The sun was shining today, so I decided to mess with my 1.6 auto.

First I rummaged in the boot for the wheelnut key.
Then I undid the wheelnuts.
Then I jacked up the drivers side and took the wheel off
Then I broke off most of the clips holding on the splash guard

Then i wrenched the splash guard off, and I can see this

The adjuster is the pulley with the arrow pointing at it. You have to slacken the centre nut, with the green dye on.

However, you cannot see the thing that you twirl to adjust the tension

To get at that, squirm underneath the car, and look up at the alternator like this:

No, not where the arrow points, above it

Tadaa!

The twiddler at last!


After all that, my belt is as tight as a bowstring. Needs a new one I suppose.

Ah well, back to the pledge

Now off to eBay to get some new plastic clips....

 

[Nigel B]

Good job with the photos

 

[mnl]

Cheers.

I had some trouble getting the camera in, luckily I have eyes on long stalks (I used to have to stay in in the daylight, but now I'm glad of them

)

I suspect that it is possible to slacken that green nut with the splashguard on now I know where it is.

 

[mdvineng]

Nice pics

 

[raj2245]

Hi all,

Our car is an 08 Accenta 1.6 auto with a/c and 23k miles on the clock.

Just had a service done, and the dealer has advised to change the belt (recommended every 4-5 years apparently).

The cost for this was just north of £200, which I really can't afford right now.

Does anyone know the correct parts to order from Europarts? There is a message on the forum which says their part number was wrong, but the correct part number mentioned looks different to what's on their website now.

Also, is this something which I can do myself, or really should leave to an indie to sort out? I am pretty confident I can do it, but would just need to buy/borrow the torque wrench.

There's being thrifty, and there's penny-wise/pound foolish. Don't want to end up on the wrong side of that one!

Thanks!!!
Raj

 

[mdvineng]

The service data pnly states check and adjust, replace only if showing signs of damage (cracking, splitting) etc.

 

[Nigel B]

Hello Raj


If you go to the GSF site you should be able to get the right belt by simply entering your reg number.




They seem to be the same part number for all autos (HR16DE engine).

<a href="http://www.gsfcarparts.com/134ni0080" target="_blank">AUXILLARY DRIVE POLY V BELT
7PK1140</a>
Part No : 134NI0080




£20.10 Therefore £180 seems a shed-load of money just to fit it, I am sure that a good 'indie' could do it for much less.






Edited by: Nigel B

 

[raj2245]

Hi,

Thanks for the replies. Will get this ordered and sort it out!

Cheers
Raj

 

[coolhands]

Hi just to add to the pictures above - I adjusted my belt at the weekend (I had removed the wheel-arch liner before taking these pictures). I found to get on the adjusting bolt (which points towards the radiator, from the engine) a 1/4" drive 'deep' socket with ratchet was ideal length to get on it. As stated above you can't really see the bolt, you have to do it by feel. I used a 3/8" drive regular socket with ratchet to actually undo the tensioner bolt. Pics as follows

The two sizes of equipment I used:

Undoing the tensioner bolt with the 3/8" drive (do this first -slacken right off):

Adjust the belt tension with the 1/4" drive deep socket (you can see it fits nicely in front of what I think is an air-con pipe). This is hanging pointing straight down to the floor:

Edited by: coolhands

 

[mdvineng]

nice pics etc as ever with your posts coolhands, but you only need to slacken off the idler by 1/4 turn, this makes it easier to obtain correct tension as slackening off more, makes the idler pulley tilt to one side and when tightening, this will over tension the belt if not allowed for. Highly recommend a belt tension meter for this job unless very experienced at tension settings (no 90 degree twists for this type of belt, that's for the old "A" style belts).

 

[mnl]

Highly recommend a belt tension meter for this job unless very experienced at tension settings (no 90 degree twists for this type of belt, that's for the old "A" style belts).

Have you seen the prices?

I can buy a car with the tension set already for less money

The Chinese knock off copies start at £125

You can buy a clone of the Bergen twiddle gauge for £30 that is "easy to use" but I bet I'll not see the pointer with the engine in the car

 

[coolhands]

Agreed mdvineng - I can't edit the post now! (Perhaps a mod could do it and change that sentence?) but yes just slacken the tensioner bolt enough to be able to move the adjuster is better advice - don't undo it very far.

 

[mdvineng]

Highly recommend a belt tension meter for this job unless very experienced at tension settings (no 90 degree twists for this type of belt, that's for the old "A" style belts).

Have you seen the prices?

I can buy a car with the tension set already for less money

The Chinese knock off copies start at £125

You can buy a clone of the  Bergen twiddle gauge for £30 that is "easy to use" but I bet I'll not see the pointer with the engine in the car

You can on the bottom run of the belt from underneath the car ˜º

 

[coolhands]

You can buy a clone of the Bergen twiddle gauge for £30 that is "easy to use" but I bet I'll not see the pointer with the engine in the car

surprisingly it would appear you can buy a genuine one for £30 which is cheaper than laser version etc

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BERGEN-Cam-belt-universal-Tension-Gauge-Measurement-85mm-100mm-/281233356643?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item417ad07763

 

[mnl]

You can on the bottom run of the belt from underneath the car ˜º

Cheers

I'll ask Santa for a Bergen twiddle gauge

I was going to ask him for a Launch Creader CRP123 that flash mentioned before, maybe he can bring both

(I stopped squirting Pledge on my belt when the bangs cracks & squeaks from the suspension became about 1,000,000 times more annoying than a chirping that I can't hear with the windows up

)
<h1>
</h1>

 

[mdvineng]

You can on the bottom run of the belt from underneath the car ˜º

Cheers

I'll ask Santa for a Bergen twiddle gauge

I was going to ask him for a Launch Creader CRP123 that flash mentioned before, maybe he can bring both

(I stopped squirting Pledge on my belt when the bangs cracks & squeaks from the suspension became about 1,000,000 times more annoying than a chirping that I can't hear with the windows up 

)
<h1>
</h1>

Santa might be better off bringing you either a magic wand or at least earplugs ˜„

 

[mnl]

I finally got a round tuit today.

My hat goes off to anyone who can adjust the tension without taking that splashshield off.

I would need to be a very scrawny child to get my hand to that idler pulley.

The idler pulley nut is 13mm, and it isn't half tight if you reckon that you can do it.

I'm minded to make a very long nut that sticks out enough that I could possibly slip a spanner over it from the top, the problem is that it is so recessed that I couldn't get anything to engage on it that I could actually turn working down the little gap.

Maybe if I had someone else working upwards from beneath....

 

[mdvineng]

Just did the oil and filter change plus a new aux belt. Time taken without rushing or removing the splash guard was about an hour, though my left wrist area is a bit sore ˜² from rubbing on all the bits n bobs in the way. The old belt which is 5 yrs old, shows no cracking or real need to change it but it's done now. The adjuster bolt is a lefthand thread which means turning it in the direction you would for a righthand thread to undo it, releases the tension and vice versa for re-tensioning the new belt.Edited by: mdvineng